FAQ - Frequently asked questions

The purchase on account in the IPC online store is easily possible via "PayPal invoice purchase". Please keep in mind that you do not have to transfer the money to IPC-Computer, but to PayPal. On our info page on payment methods you will find more information.

• You can enroll for customer protection with Trusted Shop free of charge
• We are active in the IT-business since 1994
• The Creditreformconfirmed us a solvency index of 1,85
• We have satisfied customers, which you can see in our reviews
• You can get an overview of our team here

If you have also transferred the amount directly to IPC-Computer when buying via Amazon, we will of course refund you the amount paid twice. Please write an e-mail to buchhaltung@ipc-computer and send us your bank details, please also add the invoice paid to Amazon to the e-mail so that we can match them.

If there was a double payment in your order by mistake, please send us a request using contact form. Please select "Question about order, invoice, delivery time", our service team will process your request as soon as possible.

• No, this is not possible and not safe: modern lithium batteries are tightly sealed systems with complex integrated electronics (temperature, voltage and charge monitoring).
   
• Danger: If this unit is opened or handled improperly, there is a risk of fire or explosion.
   
• Our recommendation: We always recommend replacing with a new original (or compatible) battery. This is technically safe and makes economic sense.
   

Service tip: At IPC-Computer you will find tested batteries for almost all models. On request, we can also carry out professional installation in our workshop at a flat rate.

Opening a laptop requires care, the right tools and some experience.

Be sure to observe the following basic rules:

• De-energize: Disconnect the device completely from the mains and de-energize the internal battery.
• Tools: Use suitable precision mechanics tools and observe ESD protection.
• Caution: Systematically loosen the housing screws and carefully lift off the base cover with a plastic tool.

• No force: Do not use force! Many devices have hidden screws under rubber feet or stickers.
   

  Video instructions: Our "My laptop from the inside" series clearly shows how different laptop models are constructed. The more than 250 videos (YouTube) will help you to understand the design and locate components safely.
   

Service: If you are unsure or permanently installed components need to be separated, our technicians in the workshop will safely remove and repair them.

• Will I lose data if I change the battery?

• No, usually not: Changing the battery is usually easy to do yourself if you follow the necessary steps:
   
• Procedure:

1. Disconnect the power: Unplug the power adapter and switch off the laptop.
2. Open: Loosen all the screws on the underside to access the battery.
3. Disconnect:Carefully unplug the battery connection cable from the mainboard.
4. Installation: Insert the new battery and screw everything back in properly.

• Quality: Only use original batteries or high-quality IPC-Computer replacement batteries.

   

Tip: Take a look at our instructions first! We have over 250 videos in the "My laptop from the inside" section, including your model.

• How do I find the right battery for my laptop model?

• As batteries are usually permanently installed in your device these days, we will be happy to replace them for you.
   
• Flat rate: We will replace the battery in your device for a fixed price of $73.83 (including VAT).
   
• This is how it works: You can simply add this service to the purchase of a new battery in our store.

• Classic signs: It makes sense to replace the battery if the runtime has been significantly reduced, the battery no longer charges fully or the device suddenly switches off when connected to the mains.
   
• Urgent danger: If your battery is severely bloated or the housing is deformed, it must be replaced immediately for safety reasons!
   
• Loss of performance: After around 2-3 years or 300-500 charging cycles, a battery will noticeably lose performance. At the latest when the capacity drops below 80%, it is worth replacing it.
   
• Replacement options: Replace with an original battery from our warehouse or choose our IPC replica batteries as an inexpensive alternative with an optional 24-month warranty.
   

Tip (service/instructions): You can order the battery installation directly with the purchase at a flat rate - click here for the repair order. Alternatively, you can find over 250 videos "My laptop from the inside", which explain the replacement process in an easy-to-understand way.

• No, your data is safe: Your data is stored on the SSD or hard disk and will not be lost if you change the battery.
   

• Possible exception (clock/BIOS): If your laptop does not have its own BIOS battery, it may be necessary to reset the time in the BIOS.

  → No problem: The system time is automatically synchronized via the Internet at the latest after Windows startup and is correct again.

An internal battery cannot usually be completely disconnected from the power supply without disconnecting it electronically or physically. However, many laptops have a built-in safety function for this purpose:

1. via the BIOS/UEFI: Some manufacturers offer the Battery Disconnect or Internal Battery Disable option there. This disconnects the battery electrically until the power supply unit is reconnected.

2. via the switch in the service door: Some devices have a small slide switch or button under the maintenance flap that can be used to deactivate the battery before maintenance work.

3. manual disconnection: If none of these options are available, the battery can only be disconnected from the mainboard by qualified personnel or yourself with caution.

Tip: Check the instructions first! You will find over 250 video instructions for professionally opening and expanding your device in our series “My laptop from the inside”.

If your laptop battery is causing problems, a so-called battery reset can often help by restarting the internal charging electronics.

Instructions

1. Preparation: First disconnect the mains adapter from the device and switch it off completely.
2. Find the reset button: Look on the bottom or back of your laptop for the small hole, usually labeled"battery reset pinhole".
3. Perform reset: Press the button hidden inside carefully with a paperclip for about 4 seconds.
4. Wait: Then leave the device for about 5 minutes without a power adapter or other power source to ensure an unaltered result.
    

Your battery has now been successfully reset.

Unfortunately, it is not possible to "revive" a modern laptop battery in the true sense of the word, as the integrated protection and charging electronics automatically switch off in the event of severe deep discharge.

What you can do (diagnosis):

Carry out these steps to rectify problems with the electronics or software:

1. Check the power supply: First check that the power supply and charging socket are intact and that the battery is receiving charging current.
2. Charge overnight: Leave the laptop connected to the power supply overnight (even if no charging indicator appears). Sometimes the devices "wake up" deeply discharged batteries slowly.
3. System reset: If necessary, carry out a BIOS update or a power reset according to the manufacturer's instructions if the battery is not recognized.
    

Conclusion: If none of this helps, the battery is permanently defective and must be replaced. A professional battery replacement with an original or IPC own-brand battery is the safest solution.

These tools are used by our technical department to assess the overall condition of batteries (including stored goods) and to narrow down sources of error. If stored properly (ideally cool, dry and at 50% charge), the results often remain very good.

• BatteryMon: Shows how quickly your battery is charged and how long the charge lasts.
• AIDA64: Reads detailed data from the battery firmware (e.g. nominal capacity, charge cycles, wear level), which is essential for an accurate diagnosis.

• Common causes: Defective power supply/cable, dirty or loose charging socket, defective battery, overheating, problems with the mainboard/charging electronics or faulty software/BIOS settings (e.g. battery protection mode).
   

Your 6-point quick check

1. Power supply/cable: Test a different power supply (voltage/plug suitable) and check your cable/plug for breakage.
2. Charging socket: Clean it carefully and check for play.
3. Battery status: Check the battery LEDs/indicator.
4. System reset: Remove the power adapter and the battery (if removable). Press and hold the power button for 30 seconds to discharge the device.
5. Software: Check battery protection/threshold values in Windows/BIOS, carry out driver or BIOS updates.
6. Cross test: Test the device without battery (only power supply unit) or with another battery.
    

When is a spare part/service required?

• Power supply/cable: If it gets warm, beeps or has loose contact, you need to replace the power supply/cable.
• Charging socket: If the socket is wobbly or has no contact, the DC jack needs to be replaced.
• Battery: If the battery does not charge, inflates or loses capacity quickly, you need to replace it. You can find suitable batteries here.
• Mainboard: If these steps do not help, you will need a diagnosis for the mainboard/charging electronics.

• Which free battery diagnostic tools does IPC-Computer recommend?

Old or defective laptop batteries do not belong in household waste. They contain valuable raw materials, but also environmentally hazardous substances.

You have several safe and legally prescribed options:

• Hand them in at a retailer: Every retailer who sells rechargeable batteries - including us - is obliged to take back used batteries free of charge.
• Recycling center or collection point: Your local recycling center also accepts defective laptop batteries.
• Return by post: If you have ordered a new battery from us, you can send the old battery back to us securely packaged. We will take care of the proper disposal.
   

Safety tip: Always tape the battery terminals before disposal to avoid short circuits and the risk of fire.

Further information:

• Further legal information on the Battery Ordinance can be found here (IPC-Computer).

• No, not immediately: A new battery only reaches its full capacity after a few charging and discharging cycles (so-called "running-in" of the cells).
   
• Duration: After around 3 to 5 complete charging cycles, the battery will generally work at its optimum capacity. Slight fluctuations in runtime at the beginning are normal.
   

Important note: New batteries are partially charged. Fully charge the battery once before using it for the first time so that your system can correctly record the energy status.

• How do I calibrate my battery - instructions.

The average lifespan of a laptop battery is between 2 and 5 years, depending on usage, charging behavior and ambient temperature. The decisive factor is how many charging cycles the battery goes through - usually between 300 and 1000 cycles until the capacity noticeably decreases.

How to extend the service life:

• Avoid heat: Heat accelerates cell ageing - ensure good cooling.
• Optimal charging range: A battery level between 20 and 80 % is ideal.
• Storage: If you don't use your laptop for a longer period of time, store the battery in a cool and dry place at approx. 50% charge.
• Regular use: Even rarely used batteries should be charged and discharged occasionally.

When to replace? After around 2 to 5 years or when the battery life becomes significantly shorter, it is worth replacing it with a new battery to restore full performance.

• How do I care for and charge my battery properly?

A small amount of wear of 1% to 5% on new laptop batteries is completely normal and due to technical reasons.

• Cause: Every battery is checked (charged and discharged) at the factory to test its function. This results in minimal wear, which is stored in the battery management system (BMS).
• Other factors: Storage time and temperature differences can also slightly influence the displayed status.
• Complaint: You should only check or complain about the battery if the indicated wear is significantly higher than 5% or the capacity is noticeably lower.

Deep discharge is when the cell voltage of a battery falls below the permitted minimum. This damages the battery cells so that the battery can often no longer be charged or activated.

• Prevention (storage): To prevent this, you should fully charge the battery beforehand if it is not going to be used for a long period of time and store it in a cool, dry place (ideally: until charged). A battery left empty in the laptop can also discharge itself.
• Practical tip for reactivating
  If your battery no longer responds at all (could be deeply discharged), try the following:

1. Insert the battery into the laptop and connect the mains adapter.
2. Leave the device connected to the mains adapter overnight (at least 12 hours) without switching it on.
3. During this time, the charging electronics will try to gently revive the battery.

These three specifications describe the electrical performance of your battery and together determine the runtime of your laptop.

• Wh (watt hours): Indicates how much energy the battery can store in total. The higher the Wh number, the longer the runtime (depending on laptop performance and usage).
   
• mAh (milliampere hours): Stands for the amount of charge, i.e. how much power the battery can supply. For example, a 5000 mAh battery has 25% more capacity than a 4000 mAh battery with the same voltage.
   
• Volt (V): Refers to the operating voltage of the rechargeable battery. This value must match the original battery exactly (e.g. 10.8 V or 11.1 V). Deviations can damage the device.
   

For orientation: A typical 6-cell battery is 11.1 V / 4400 mAh / approx. 49 Wh and offers around 4 to 6 hours of runtime. Ultrabooks with 60-70 Wh often achieve 8 to 10 hours, while gaming laptops only have a runtime of 2 to 3 hours.

Rule: The same voltage (V) as the original is important. A higher Wh or mAh rating ensures a longer battery life if the battery is compatible.

Here you can find high-quality original laptop batteries or often more powerful IPC-Computer replica batteries.

• Basically: In most cases, changing the battery does not affect the manufacturer's warranty, as long as you use an original battery and no damage is caused to the device during installation.
• Battery accessible from the outside: You can change it yourself - this is expressly intended by the manufacturer.
• Battery installed in the device: It is advisable to read the warranty conditions here. As the underside of the laptop must be unscrewed, improper handling may invalidate the warranty.

Tip: We can carry out the replacement professionally in our workshop on request. Simply select installation included when purchasing the battery in the store.

• Looks are deceptive: modern counterfeits are virtually indistinguishable from the original. You should therefore not rely on logos and packaging.
   

The only reliable method: Data comparison

The only really reliable method is to compare the technical data between the battery label and the battery firmware (BMS/BIOS).

• This is how it works: You can read out the firmware data using free software (e.g. BatteryMon, AIDA64, HWiNFO).
   

Test features and indicators (warning signals)
 

• BMS data deviation: If the values displayed in the software (especially production date, cell manufacturer or design capacity) deviate from the information on the type plate, this is a forgery.
• Number comparison: Check the printed part numbers (FRU, P/N) with the manufacturer.
• Packaging: A standard brown box without the corresponding type plates is often an indication.
• Important (price & origin): Unfortunately, the price and purchase from the official distributor are no longer reliable factors, as dealers mix qualities and sell counterfeits at the original price.
   

Conclusion: As counterfeits represent a safety risk, it is advisable to only buy laptop batteries from trustworthy specialist dealers such as IPC-Computer.

As batteries are now usually permanently installed in the housing, the easiest way to find them is via the manufacturer and model name of your device.

This is how you can find the battery in our store:

1. Find model: You can find the full model number on the type plate on the bottom of your laptop or in the system settings (e.g. under device information).
2. Search: Enter the brand and model number (e.g. "HP Pavilion 15-eg0000") in the search bar of our store.
3. Result: Only suitable and tested batteries will be displayed automatically - regardless of whether they are original parts or compatible alternatives.
    

Tip: If you cannot find your exact sub-model number (e.g. 15-eg3413ng), you can search for the model series (e.g. 15-eg0000) without hesitation. Batteries are always identical and compatible within the model series.

Alternatively, you can also enter the part number (Part No.) of the old, removed battery directly in the store search field.

• Our recommendation: IPC-Computer always recommends the original battery. This comes directly from the manufacturer or its certified supplier (e.g. LG, Sanyo).

  → Original advantages: Precisely matched to the laptop model (electronics, protection circuit, cell quality), maximum service life, optimum performance and maximum safety.
   

• Replica risk: Although anonymous replica batteries are cheaper, they carry a significantly higher risk in terms of quality, safety, fit and service life.
   
• Safe alternative (IPC own brand): If the original battery is no longer available, IPC-Computer offers tested own-brand batteries as a safe alternative. These are tested internally and you can optionally extend the warranty to 2 years for a small additional charge.
   

Conclusion: If it is available, choose the original battery. If it is out of stock, our IPC own brand is a tested and safe alternative. You can find both variants in our store.

• How can I reliably identify counterfeit batteries or gray imports?

• Warranty & Guarantee: All original laptop batteries purchased from IPC-Computer are covered by the statutory warranty and a manufacturer's guarantee (in accordance with the store conditions).
   
• Regular warranty period: As a rule, the warranty period is 12 months from the date of purchase, unless otherwise stated in the item description.
   

What the warranty does not cover:

Batteries are wearing parts. The warranty covers material and manufacturing defects, but not the normal loss of capacity (wear and tear) that occurs over time or damage caused by improper handling (e.g. heat).

Your benefit: Warranty extension

• For an additional charge, you can purchase a 24-month IPC warranty extension in the online store.
• Warranty case: However, if your battery significantly loses power or has a technical defect within the warranty period, please contact our service team. We will examine the case in accordance with our warranty conditions and ensure fast, uncomplicated processing.

The runtime depends on the display brightness, processor load, temperature and battery age. You can improve it in two ways:

1. optimize software & usage

• Brightness: Reduce the screen brightness.
• Mode: Activate the energy-saving mode.
• Connections: Switch off unused WLAN or Bluetooth connections.
• Battery care: Ideally, keep the battery between 20% and 80% charge to conserve charging cycles and extend the service life.
   

2. upgrade through hardware

If your current battery is already low, you can consider buying a replacement battery with higher performance (more Wh).

• IPC advantage: IPC-Computer offers its own replacement batteries for many models, which often deliver 10-20 percent more energy content than the manufacturer's variants.

During calibration, the battery is fully charged once, then completely discharged and then fully charged again. This allows Windows 11 to recalculate the actual capacity and display the battery correctly again.

This is how it works step by step:

1. Open Settings→ System →Energy & battery.
2. Set screen and sleep mode to "Never" so that the laptop continues to run while discharging.
3. Fully charge the battery (100%) and then leave it connected to the mains for 1-2 hours.
4. Disconnect the mains adapter and leave the laptop running until it switches off automatically.
5. Conclusion: Fully charge the battery again (100 %). Then reset the power settings.
    

Important: Calibration only improves the battery status display, it does not restore lost battery capacity. If the battery remains low, it is advisable to replace the battery.

You can significantly extend the service life of your battery by charging it correctly and avoiding heat :
 

• Optimal charging range: Keep the battery level between 20 and 80 % if possible. Extremes (permanently below 10 or at 100 %) put unnecessary strain on the cells.
• Avoid heat: High temperatures are the biggest enemy of battery cells. Make sure your laptop is well ventilated and avoid direct sunlight or soft surfaces.
• Working on the power supply: Modern laptops are safe. They stop charging automatically as soon as the battery is full. Occasional work in mains operation is harmless.

• Wie kann ich die Akkulaufzeit meines Laptops erhöhen?

Power management in Windows directly affects how long your laptop lasts on a single battery charge by controlling processor power, screen brightness, fan behavior, and background processes. The actual runtime can vary by several hours depending on the profile you choose.

The most important power profiles at a glance

Additional fine adjustments

You can get an additional 30 to 60 minutes of battery life by using the advanced power settings. These include measures such as:

• Automatically turning off the hard drive after a period of inactivity.
• Dimming or turning off the display earlier.

The runtime is difficult to estimate as it depends on many factors (CPU, display, WLAN, graphics chip). However, you can roughly calculate it and extend it by taking simple measures.

How to calculate the battery life

The battery life (t) is calculated by dividing the stored energy (Wh) by the power consumption (W) of your laptop:

Battery life (t) = energy (Wh) / power (W)

Example (15.6" laptop): With a usual power consumption of approx. 20 W, a 60 Wh battery lasts for about 3 hours.

• Calculate energy (Wh): The stored energy (Wh) is calculated from the voltage (V) and the amount of charge (Ah).

  → The formula is: Energy (Wh) = voltage (V) * charge quantity (Ah)

  → Example: For a 6-cell battery with 4400 mAh (4.4 Ah) and 11.1 V, the result is: 48.84 Wh.

• Estimate runtime: Assuming a typical power consumption of approx. 20 W, the 48.84 Wh battery will last for approx. 2.5 hours (48.84 Wh/ 20 W).
   

Tips for extending the battery life

You can significantly increase the battery life by reducing the power consumption (power W):

• Display brightness: Reduce the brightness of the display as much as possible. Most of the energy is consumed by a display that is too bright.
• Energy-saving mode: Use the manufacturer's energy-saving options (e.g. under Control Panel → Power Options).
• Connections: Switch off the WLAN/Bluetooth connections if they are not needed.
• Peripherals: Disconnect external devices (e.g. hard disks) from the laptop.
• Background: Deactivate all unnecessary tools and programs running in the background.

• How does Windows power management affect battery life?

On average, a full charge takes between 1.5 and 3 hours.

Rule of thumb: A full charge of your battery generally takes approx. 30 - 50% longer than a full discharge (e.g. a running time of 2 hours corresponds to a charging time of approx. 2 hours and 48 minutes).

Factors influencing the charging time

The charging time depends largely on the battery capacity (Wh/mAh) and the power of your power supply unit.

Practical value: Many laptops reach around 80% charge after about 2 hours. The rest takes a little longer due to the gentle charging mode.

Exemplary charging times

• No, not really: modern laptops and batteries have intelligent charging circuits that prevent overcharging. When the battery is full, the power supply is automatically taken over by the mains adapter.
   
• Ageing: A constant full charge (100 %) over a long period of time can slightly accelerate the ageing of the battery. A charge level between 40 and 80 % is optimal for longevity.
   
• Tip for stationary use: Operate your laptop occasionally without the mains adapter to discharge the battery or remove the battery completely (if possible). Also ensure good ventilation (clean the ventilation slots!), as heat is harmful.

• Not a defect, but protection: If your battery only charges to around 80%, in most cases this is a battery protection function. It is intended to slow down cell ageing, as a constant full charge reduces the service life.
   
• Where is the setting? The limitation can be activated in the BIOS, in the manufacturer's software (e.g. Dell Power Manager, Lenovo Vantage) or directly in Windows.
   
• Customize in Windows: You can often find the setting under: Settings → System → Energy & Battery → Battery Status / Smart Charging. You can deactivate or adjust the protection here.
   
• Further steps: If the battery does not charge fully despite the adjusted settings, it may be advisable to calibrate or replace the battery.
   

• How do I calibrate my battery - instructions.

Ob sich die Reparatur eines defekten Laptop‑Displays lohnt, hängt stark vom ursprünglichen Kaufpreis und der Gerätekategorie ab.

1. Wirtschaftlich sinnvoll bei Mittel‑ und Oberklasse‑Geräten

Ein Displaytausch kostet in unserer Werkstatt derzeit 79 Euro. Hinzu kommen die Kosten für das LED Display selbst, die je nach Größe und Auflösung meist zwischen 65 und 250 Euro liegen.
Damit bleiben die Gesamtkosten meist deutlich unter 300 Euro, was sich vor allem bei Business‑, Gaming‑ oder höherwertigen Multimedia‑Notebooks klar rechnet. Bei Geräten dieser Preisklasse übersteigt der funktionale Gegenwert den Reparaturpreis in der Regel deutlich.

2. Eingeschränkte Wirtschaftlichkeit bei sehr günstigen Geräten

Bei preisgünstigen Notebooks wie Chromebooks oder Einsteigermodellen, deren Neupreis oft nur 250 – 400 Euro beträgt, lohnt sich eine Reparatur wirtschaftlich meist weniger. Der Displaytausch kommt hier oft in die Nähe des Restwerts des Geräts.

3. Abwägung zur Nachhaltigkeit

Selbst bei älteren Laptops – etwa fünf Jahre und älter – ist eine Reparatur oft sinnvoll, wenn der Rechner technisch und optisch sonst in gutem Zustand ist. Sie verlängert die Lebensdauer deutlich und vermeidet unnötigen Elektroschrott.

Kurz gesagt:

• Bei teuren Geräten wie Business, Gaming oder Premium Modellen ist eine Display Reparatur meist lohnend.
• Bei sehr günstigen Einsteigermodellen solltest du die Wirtschaftlichkeit im Einzelfall prüfen.
• Allgemein gilt: Einzeldisplays sind günstig austauschbar und bieten oft ein gutes Preis-Leistungs-Verhältnis.

Ein flackerndes LED‑Display am Laptop weist oft auf ein Problem im Signal‑ oder Strompfad hin. Nicht immer ist sofort das Panel selbst defekt – durch sorgfältige Prüfung lässt sich die Ursache meist eindeutig eingrenzen.

Häufige Ursachen für LED‑Display‑Flackern

1. Wackelkontakt am Displaykabel (eDP/LVDS)
   Beim Öffnen und Schließen des Notebooks wird das flexible Verbindungskabel stark beansprucht. Ein Kabelbruch oder loser Stecker kann zu Flackern führen – typisch ist, dass sich das Bild bei bestimmten Displaystellungen verändert. Als Laptop Display auf und zuklappen - wenn sich hier das Flackern einstellt, ist nicht das Display defekt.
2. Fehler in der LED‑Hintergrundbeleuchtung
   LED‑Treiber oder die Stromversorgung der Hintergrundbeleuchtung können unregelmäßig arbeiten. Dadurch entstehen sichtbare Helligkeitsschwankungen oder leichtes Pulsieren auf dem Bildschirm.
3. Grafiktreiber‑ oder Softwareprobleme
   Nach System‑ oder Treiberupdates kann ein falscher Grafiktreiber den LED‑Display‑Takt stören. Eine Neuinstallation oder ein Rollback auf den letzten stabilen Treiber schafft oft Abhilfe.
4. Falsche Bildwiederholrate oder Energiesparmodi
   Manche Laptops steuern das LED‑Panel mit reduzierter Frequenz, wenn Energiesparoptionen aktiv sind – das äußert sich durch sichtbares Flimmern. Eine feste Einstellung auf 60 Hz beseitigt den Effekt häufig.

Wann ein neues LED‑Display nötig ist:

Wenn das Flackern dauerhaft auftritt, sich nicht durch Kabel‑, Treiber‑ oder Einstellungsänderungen beheben lässt oder zusätzlich Helligkeits‑ und Farbfehler, Linien oder Schatten erscheinen, ist das LED‑Panel selbst beschädigt. Dann hilft nur der Austausch. Link zur Display-Reparatur bei IPC-Computer.

Alternativ kannst Du auch ein  Ersatz‑LED‑Display ganz einfach über die Hersteller‑Modell‑Navigation in unserem Shopbestellen – du musst dein Gerät nicht erst zerlegen. 

Wenn du unsicher bist oder das Gehäuse stark verklebt ist, übernimmt unser Notebook‑Doktor‑Service den sicheren Austausch für dich.

Wenn dein Laptop‑Display nur sehr dunkel ist und du Inhalte nur schemenhaft erkennen kannst, deutet das auf ein Problem mit der LED‑Hintergrundbeleuchtung oder deren Ansteuerung hin. Das Display selbst erzeugt weiterhin ein Bild, aber die Beleuchtung, die es sichtbar macht, funktioniert nicht korrekt.

Mögliche Ursachen

1. Defekte LED‑Hintergrundbeleuchtung
   In modernen Panels sitzen LEDs als Lichtquelle hinter oder seitlich neben dem eigentlichen Bildschirm. Fällt diese Beleuchtung teilweise oder vollständig aus, wird das Bild weiterhin erzeugt, bleibt aber extrem dunkel.
2. Fehler in der Display‑Stromversorgung oder im LED‑Treiber
   Ein Problem im Spannungswandler oder im Kabel (meist eDP) kann dazu führen, dass die Hintergrundbeleuchtung nicht genügend Energie erhält.
3. Helligkeitsregelung oder Softwarefehler
   In seltenen Fällen ist nur die Ansteuerung der Helligkeit betroffen – z. B. durch fehlerhafte Energieeinstellungen oder veraltete Grafiktreiber. Ein Test mit einem externen Monitor hilft, Software‑ von Hardwarefehlern zu unterscheiden.
4. Kabelschaden zwischen Mainboard und Display
   Besonders bei Laptops mit häufigem Auf‑ und Zuklappen kann ein Bruch im Displaykabel dazu führen, dass das Signal zur Hintergrundbeleuchtung nicht mehr zuverlässig übertragen wird.

Vorgehensweise zur Fehlereingrenzung

• Externer Monitor anschließen: Wenn dort alles normal angezeigt wird, ist das Mainboard in Ordnung, und der Fehler liegt im Bereich Display oder Kabel.
• Helligkeit prüfen: Kontrolliere, ob die Hintergrundbeleuchtung über Tastenkombination (z. B. Fn + F5/F6) oder Windows‑Energieoptionen versehentlich reduziert ist.
• Werkstatt‑Check: Wenn die Bildschirmbeleuchtung komplett ausgefallen ist oder das Bild selbst bei maximaler Helligkeit kaum sichtbar bleibt, sollte das Display oder das Kabel ersetzt werden.

Empfehlung:

In den meisten Fällen liegt die Ursache bei einem Defekt der LED‑Hintergrundbeleuchtung oder dem zugehörigen Treiber. Da das Display zur Diagnose meist geöffnet werden muss und die Rahmen oft stark verklebt sind, empfiehlt sich ein Austausch durch den Notebook‑Doktor‑Service. Über die Hersteller‑Modell‑Navigation in unserem Shop lässt sich das passende Ersatz‑LED‑Display präzise finden – ohne Ausbau des alten Panels.

Ob du dein Laptop‑Display selbst austauschen solltest oder besser den Notebook‑Doktor‑Service nutzt, hängt stark von deiner handwerklichen Erfahrung und dem konkreten Gerätemodell ab.

Wenn du eher zwei linke Hände hast, empfehlen wir klar die Reparatur über unseren Service. Unsere Techniker wissen, wie man empfindliche Bauteile sicher löst, prüfen das Ersatzdisplay gleich mit und übernehmen die fachgerechte Montage – ohne Risiko für Gehäuse oder Elektronik.

Wer dagegen etwas Fingerspitzengefühl, Motivation und technisches Grundverständnis mitbringt, kann den Austausch grundsätzlich selbst durchführen. Allerdings sollte man sich der aktuellen Herausforderungen bewusst sein:

• Viele moderne Displays sind mit der Frontrahmen und/oder  dem hinteren Displaydeckel verklebt.
• Der verwendete Kleber ist teilweise sehr stark, sodass beim Ablösen deutlich Kraft nötig ist.
• Da Rahmen und Frontblenden immer dünner werden, besteht schnell die Gefahr, dass Kunststoff oder Haltenasen beim Ausbau brechen oder sich verformen.

Praxistipp: Ein vorsichtiger, schrittweiser Ausbau – am besten mit geeignetem Werkzeug und Wärme (z. B. Heißluft) – ist hier entscheidend, um Schäden zu vermeiden.

Tipp für die Ersatzteilsuche:
Du musst dein Display nicht erst ausbauen, um das passende Modell zu finden. Über die Hersteller‑Modell‑Navigation im IPC‑Shop lässt sich das richtige Display ganz bequem anhand deines Notebook‑Modells bestimmen. Das spart Zeit und minimiert das Risiko, das alte Panel unnötig zu beschädigen.

Weiter hilfreiche Videos: Alles was Du über Notebook Display Tausch wissen solltest

Die Kosten für den Austausch eines LED‑Displays hängen davon ab, welche Display‑Bauart in deinem Notebook verbaut ist. In unserer Werkstatt gelten dabei klare Pauschalpreise (Bruttopreise zzgl. Kosten für das benötigte Display):

Zusätzlich kommen die Kosten für das passende LED Display hinzu. Diese liegen je nach Modell, Auflösung und Größe meist zwischen etwa 65 und 250 Euro. Die aktuellen Displaypreise findest du in unserem Shop.

Die angegebenen Preise gelten für den fachgerechten Einbau in unserer Werkstatt in Seelbach; sie verstehen sich als Endpreise (inkl. Mehrwertsteuer).

Bei modernen Notebooks mit LED‑Displays unterscheiden sich die Begriffe Display, Digitizer und Displayeinheit deutlich. Diese Unterscheidung ist entscheidend, wenn du ein passendes Ersatzteil suchst oder eine Reparatur planst.

1. LED‑Display (Panel)

Das LED‑Display ist das eigentliche Bild‑Panel. Es erzeugt das sichtbare Bild mithilfe einer Flüssigkristallschicht und einer LED‑Hintergrundbeleuchtung.

• Funktion: zeigt Bildinhalte, Farben und Kontraste.
• Austausch: technisch anspruchsvoll, da Frontblenden und Gehäuse oft verklebt sind.
• Defekte: Bildfehler, Helligkeitsschwankungen, Pixelfehler oder Bruch.

2. Digitizer (Touch‑Sensor‑Glas)

Der Digitizer ist eine dünne Touch‑Schicht über dem LED‑Panel.

• Funktion: erkennt Finger- oder Stifteingaben.
• Austausch: erforderlich, wenn die Touch‑Funktion oder Glasoberfläche beschädigt ist.
• Unabhängig vom LED‑Panel, wird bei vielen Geräten separat geklebt.

3. Komplette Displayeinheit (LED‑Display‑Assembly)

Die Displayeinheit beinhaltet alle sichtbaren Elemente als vormontierte Baugruppe:

• LED‑Panel, ggf. Digitizer, Gehäuserahmen, Webcam, Scharniere und Abdeckung.
• Vorteil: einfacher Einbau, minimale Fehlerquellen.
• Nachteil: etwas höhere Kosten, da mehrere Komponenten enthalten sind.

Hinweis zu aktuellen Notebook‑Designs (z. B. Dell)

Einige Hersteller, insbesondere Dell, verbauen zunehmend komplette LED‑Displayeinheiten statt einzelner Panels. Auf den ersten Blick ist häufig nicht eindeutig erkennbar, ob im jeweiligen Modell nur ein LED‑Panel oder eine komplette Einheit verbaut wurde.

Hier hilft ein Blick in unseren Shop: Dort wird beim jeweiligen Notebookmodell klar angezeigt, ob es ein einzeln austauschbares LED‑Display oder nur eine komplette Displayeinheit gibt. Damit erhältst du sofort Planungssicherheit für Kauf und Reparatur inkl. der anfallenden Kosten.

Beim Kauf eines neuen LED‑Displays zählen präzise technische Merkmale. Nur so ist sichergestellt, dass das Panel wirklich kompatibel ist und die Bildqualität stimmt. Hier die wichtigsten Parameter im Überblick:

Profi‑Tipp:
Statt technische Werte mühsam abzugleichen, einfach dein Notebook‑Modell über unseren Shop über die Hersteller/Modell Navigation auswählen. Das System filtert alle kompatiblen Displays automatisch. So sind Größe, Anschluss, Auflösung und Einbauform garantiert passend. Alternativ kannst du auch den kostengünstigen Austausch des defekten Displays über die Reparatur-Beauftragung bei uns abwickeln lassen. Link zum Formular.

Ein defektes Laptop-Display zeigt sich oft durch ganz typische Symptome – je nach Art des Schadens kann das Problem jedoch an verschiedenen Stellen liegen (Display selbst, Displaykabel oder Grafikeinheit). 

Typische Anzeichen für ein defektes Display:

1. Kein Bild, aber das Notebook startet hörbar
   Wenn die Lüfter anlaufen, Status-LEDs leuchten und du Starttöne hörst, das Display aber komplett schwarz bleibt, kann die Hintergrundbeleuchtung oder das Panel selbst defekt sein. Das Anschließen eines Externen Monitors schafft i.d.R. Klarheit.
2. Streifen, Pixelmuster oder flackernde Bereiche
   Horizontale oder vertikale Linien, Flackern oder Farbstörungen deuten meist auf einen Panelschaden oder ein defektes Displaykabel hin. Auch hier gilt: Ein Test mit einem externen Monitor hilft: Wird dort ein sauberes Bild angezeigt, liegt der Fehler am Display.
3. Risse oder sichtbare Glasbrüche
   Mechanische Schäden sind eindeutig – schon feine Haarrisse unter der Glasoberfläche führen zu schwarzen oder verfärbten Bereichen, die sich nicht mehr verändern. In diesem Fall hilft nur der Austausch des Displays.
4. Beleuchtung funktioniert, aber kein Inhalt sichtbar
   Wenn der Bildschirm zwar hell wird, aber keine Schrift oder Bilder zeigt, deutet das auf einen Defekt im Signalpfad oder im Displaycontroller hin. Damit ist ein Displaytausch die Lösung.
5. Farbstiche oder unregelmäßige Helligkeit
   Verfärbungen, dunkle Flecken oder Schatten entstehen häufig durch Druckstellen oder gealterte Hintergrundbeleuchtung (LED). Auch hier muss das Laptop Display getauscht werden.

Tipp zur Ursachenprüfung:

Bevor du das Display als defekt einstufst:

• Starte das Notebook mit angeschlossenem externen Monitor. Bleibt dort alles normal, ist das Mainboard bzw. die Grafikeinheit in Ordnung.
• Prüfe außerdem, ob beim Auf- und Zuklappen das Bild flackert – dann könnte nur das Displaykabel lose oder gebrochen sein.

Empfehlung vom Notebook-Doktor:

Wenn du unsicher bist oder sichtbare Beschädigungen vorliegen, lohnt sich der Weg in unsere ipc-computer Servicewerkstatt. Dort prüfen wir kostenlos, ob nur das Display getauscht werden muss oder ob ein anderer Fehler vorliegt. - Link zur Display-Repatur Beantragung.

Das passende Ersatzdisplay zu finden ist einfacher als viele denken. Entscheidend ist ein systematisches Vorgehen. Dabei spielen vor allem die Modellnummer, die Bauart des Displays und mögliche Besonderheiten des Herstellers eine wichtige Rolle.

Schritt-für-Schritt-Anleitung zur Displaysuche im IPC-Ersatzteile Shop:

1. Notebook-Modell ermitteln
   Auf der Unterseite deines Laptops findest du meist ein Etikett mit Modellbezeichnung oder Seriennummer. Diese Angaben sind die Basis für die Suche im IPC-Computer Shop.
2. Hersteller- und Modell-Navigation nutzen
   Über unsere Hersteller-Modell-Navigation kannst du direkt nach deinem Notebook-Modell filtern. Dadurch bekommst du ausschließlich kompatible Displays angezeigt, ohne das alte Display zuvor ausbauen zu müssen. Das spart Zeit und verhindert Fehlbestellungen, die aufgrund der verschiedenen Bauformen und technischen Merkmale recht wahrscheinlich sind. Achte darauf, ob dein Notebook ein glänzendes oder mattes Display besitzt und welche Auflösung vorliegt, zum Beispiel Full HD oder 4K. Diese Merkmale sind im Shop klar angegeben.
3. Herausforderungen moderner Bauweisen berücksichtigen
   Viele aktuelle Notebooks besitzen geklebt montierte Frontscheiben und sehr schmale Displayrahmen. Das erschwert den Ausbau und kann bei unvorsichtigem Vorgehen zu Brüchen führen. Deshalb ist es oft ratsam, das Display erst zu öffnen, wenn du das neue Ersatzteil bereits vorliegt. Alternativ kannst du bei Unsicherheit den Notebook Doktor Service in Anspruch nehmen. Ein echter Mehrwert für IPC Kunden: Bei allen verklebten Displays sind passende Klebestreifen bereits im Lieferumfang enthalten.
4. Original oder kompatibel wählen
   IPC Computer bietet sowohl Original Ersatzteile als auch geprüfte kompatible Displays an. Beide Varianten sind qualitativ hochwertig und werden nach Modellnummer sowie technischer Spezifikation sorgfältig sortiert. Oftmals unterscheiden sich die Displays gar nicht und es wird das identische Bauteil geliefert. Lediglich die andere Bezugsquelle beim kompatiblen Display ermöglicht einen deutlich besseren Preis.

Tipp: Mit über 20 Jahren Erfahrung im Ersatzteilhandel und Werkstattservice für Laptops hilft dir IPC Computer zuverlässig weiter. Wir unterstützen dich bei der Auswahl oder übernehmen den fachgerechten Einbau deines neuen Displays. Hier kannst du einen Laptop oder All-in-One Displaytausch in Auftrag geben → Link zum Reparaturformular.

Beim Öffnen eines Laptops und dem Tausch eines LED‑Displays sind Sorgfalt, passendes Werkzeug und technisches Verständnis entscheidend. Viele aktuelle Geräte verwenden sehr dünne, teils verklebte Displayrahmen. Dies gilt besonders bei Marken wie HP, Lenovo, Dell oder Acer.

Wichtige Hinweise für den sicheren Öffnungsvorgang

• Verwende geeignetes Werkzeug: Nutze feine Hilfsmittel wie Kunststoffspatel, Präzisionsschraubendreher und gegebenenfalls Saugnäpfe.
• Klebeverbindungen lösen: Löse vorhandene Klebeverbindungen vorsichtig. Idealerweise nutzt du etwas Wärme, um Risse im dünnen Rahmen zu vermeiden.
• Vorsicht beim Kabel: Ziehe beim LED Displaytausch niemals am Kabel. Der eDP Stecker ist extrem empfindlich und kann leicht beschädigt werden.
• Funktionstest durchführen: Teste vor dem finalen Zusammenbau immer kurz, ob das neue Display Signale empfängt und die Beleuchtung einwandfrei funktioniert.

Warum ein Original Display die bessere Wahl ist: Um böse Überraschungen beim Einbau zu vermeiden, empfehlen wir immer den Kauf eines Original Notebook Displays. Nur so ist garantiert, dass die Befestigungen exakt passen, die Steckerleiste an der richtigen Position sitzt und die Bildqualität (IPS oder TN Panel) dem Werkszustand entspricht. Alle Details dazu findest du in unserem Ratgeber: Die sechs wichtigsten Gründe für ein Notebook Original Display.

Praxisunterstützung und visuelle Hilfe

In unserer Video‑Reihe „Mein Laptop von innen” zeigen wir anschaulich, wie verschiedene Notebook‑Modelle aufgebaut sind und welche Schritte nötig sind, um sie sicher zu öffnen → Hier geht es zur Video Serie: Mein Laptop von innen (YouTube).

Wenn du dir beim Öffnen unsicher bist oder ein Gerät besitzt, das stark verklebt oder besonders kompakt gebaut ist, übernehmen unsere Techniker in der Werkstatt den sicheren Ausbau und den fachgerechten LED‑Displaytausch → Link zur Reparatur-Anmeldung.

Die Größe des LED‑Displays ist ein wichtiges Kriterium, wenn ein Ersatz ansteht. Sie bestimmt, welches Panel und welche Bauform genau in dein Notebook passt.

1. Größe bequem über das Modell ermitteln

Am einfachsten findest du die korrekte Größe über die Modellbezeichnung deines Notebooks. Diese steht meist auf der Unterseite oder in den Systemeinstellungen. Wenn du sie in unserem Shop eingibst, werden alle kompatiblen LED‑Displays automatisch gefiltert. So musst du dein Gerät weder öffnen noch selbst zum Maßband greifen.

2. Manuelles Messen nur bei Erfahrung

Alternativ kannst du die sichtbare Bildschirmdiagonale (ohne Rahmen) messen. Setze das Maßband dafür an einer unteren Ecke an und miss schräg zur gegenüberliegenden oberen Ecke. Ein Wert von 39,6 cm entspricht beispielsweise etwa 15,6 Zoll. Wer handwerklich weniger geübt ist, sollte beim Ausbau jedoch vorsichtig sein, da moderne Rahmen oft dünn und verklebt sind.

3. Wann die Werkstatt hilft

Wenn du dir unsicher bist, welche Größe oder Variante (einzelnes Display oder komplette Einheit) in deinem Gerät verbaut ist, hilft dir unser Service weiter. In vielen Fällen ist es sinnvoll, unseren Notebook‑Doktor‑Service mit der Prüfung zu beauftragen. Unsere Techniker können das passende LED‑Display exakt bestimmen und fachgerecht austauschen – ohne Risiko für Gehäuse oder Anschlussbuchsen.

Wichtiger Hinweis zum Ersatzteil Achte beim Kauf unbedingt auf ein Original Ersatzteil. Warum das wichtig ist, erfährst du in unserem Blog Beitrag über die sechs wichtigsten Gründe für ein Notebook Original Display. 

In unserem Shopfindest du eine große Auswahl passgenauer Original Displays. Gib einfach dein Notebook Modell in die Suche ein, um garantiert kompatible Ersatzteile zu erhalten. So passen die Bildqualität, die Anschlüsse und der Rahmen perfekt zusammen.

Yes, with the right settings, operation in the folded state is possible. In this video we show how it works.

Technically speaking, a more powerful power supply can be used without any problems and does not pose any danger to your device, as it always draws as much energy as it currently needs. The only disadvantage is the usually higher price of the more powerful product.

In order to use your docking station or port replicator, you need the appropriate drivers. The easiest way to find these drivers is directly from the manufacturer of the docking station/port replicator. You will usually need the serial number or the exact model name. 

The driver for our in-house port replicator can be found on our info page for the IPC port replicator.

Yes, as general rule this is possible. Although you have to consider the power capacity and the type of the connection.

Es sollte möglich sein wenn das Notebook und die Docking Station vom selben Hersteller stammt.

Jedoch können wir dies nicht gewährleisten.

Falls Sie noch mehr über die Thematik erfahren wollen haben wir hier ein Blog-Beitrag für sie: Blog

Basically yes, you can use them to charge your laptop, however you have to make sure, that it has enough power to do so. To find out, if it has it, please compare the specifications on the back of the original power supply with those of the one, that came with your docking station. The output voltage should not differ more than 1 volt and the output power should be greater or equal to that of the original power supply.

In our shop we also offer combinations of docking stations and power supplies.

• How do I find out how much power (watts) my AC adapter has?
• How do I find the right AC adapter in the IPC Shop?

Mögliche Ursachen und Lösungen:

• USB‑C‑ oder Thunderbolt‑Port ohne Datenfunktion:
  Viele Laptops haben USB‑C‑Anschlüsse, die nur zum Laden gedacht sind – keine Daten- oder Bildübertragung.
• Falsches oder defektes Kabel:
  Nutze ein USB‑C- oder Thunderbolt‑Kabel, das Daten, Strom und Videosignale unterstützt.
• Treiber fehlen oder veraltet:
  Aktuelle Dockingstation-, Chipsatz- und Grafiktreiber beim Hersteller installieren.
• Firmware veraltet:
  Firmware‑Update für die Dockingstation und ggf. BIOS‑Update am Laptop ausführen.
• Dockingstation nicht mit Strom versorgt:
  Einige Modelle brauchen ein eigenes Netzteil, sonst wird sie vom Laptop nicht erkannt.
• Kompatibilität fehlt:
  Nicht alle Dockingstations funktionieren mit jedem Laptop.
  → Spezielle Docks (z. B. von HP, Dell, Lenovo) sind nur mit bestimmten Serien nutzbar. Tipp - im IPC Shop sind nur die passenden Modelle beim Modell hinterlegt.
• Thunderbolt-Sicherheit aktiv:
  Bei Thunderbolt‑Docks muss die Verbindung im Windows-Sicherheitsdialog bestätigt werden.
• Betriebssystemproblem:
  Neustart durchführen oder Dockingstation an einem anderen Port testen.
• Geräte‑Manager prüfen:
  Wird die Dockingstation angezeigt oder mit einem gelben Warnsymbol markiert? Treiber ggf. neu installieren.
• Dockingstation überhitzt oder hängt sich auf:
  Dock komplett vom Strom trennen, 30 Sekunden warten, erneut verbinden.
• Port oder Zubehör defekt:
  Teste die Dockingstation an einem anderen Laptop, um den Fehler einzugrenzen.
• Windows-Energieverwaltung:
  USB-Energiesparfunktion ausschalten, da sie die Dockingstation blockieren kann.

Tipp:
Bei Unsicherheit über Kompatibilität: In unserem Shop findest du geprüfte Dockingstations für viele Laptop‑Modelle.
? Zu den Dockingstations bei IPC Computer

• USB‑C Anschluss ohne Datenfunktion:
  Nicht jeder USB‑C‑Port unterstützt Bild- oder Datenübertragung. Manche dienen nur zum Laden.
• Kabel ungeeignet:
  Viele USB‑C Kabel übertragen nur Strom. Verwende ein vollwertiges Datenkabel.
• Dockingstation ohne Stromversorgung:
  Dock benötigen oft ein eigenes Netzteil. Prüfe, ob die LED an der Dockingstation leuchtet.
• Treiber fehlen oder veraltet:
  Installiere aktuelle Docking-, Grafik- und Chipsatztreiber vom Hersteller.
• Firmware-Update nötig:
  Bei Thunderbolt- und Marken-Dockingstations kann eine Firmware-Aktualisierung die Verbindung beheben.
• Dockingstation inkompatibel:
  Besonders bei HP, Lenovo, Dell oder Asus gibt es herstellerspezifische Docks – prüfe die Kompatibilitätsliste.
• Betriebssystemproblem:
  Führe einen Neustart durch oder teste an einem anderen USB‑C‑Port.
• BIOS- oder Thunderbolt-Einstellungen:
  Im BIOS kann der Thunderbolt- oder USB‑C-Modus deaktiviert sein.
• Defekter Port oder Kabelbruch:
  Steckverbindung und Kabel auf mechanische Beschädigungen prüfen.
• Zu viele Geräte angeschlossen:
  Einige Docks haben begrenzte Strom- oder Bandbreite – trenne testweise andere USB-Geräte.
• Dockingstation über Hitze oder Staub beeinträchtigt:
  Lüftungsöffnungen und Kontakte reinigen, ggf. kurz abkühlen lassen.
• Energiesparmodus aktiv:
  Nach dem Standby kann die Verbindung gestört sein – Dockingstation kurz abziehen und neu verbinden.
• Windows- oder Treibereinstellungen:
  Im Geräte-Manager prüfen, ob die Dockingstation angezeigt oder mit einem Fehler markiert ist.

Tipp:
Wenn du dir unsicher bist, welche Dockingstation zu deinem Laptop passt, findest du geprüfte und kompatible Modelle hier:
Dockingstations im Onlineshop bei IPC Computer

Wichtige Punkte vor dem Kauf oder Anschluss:

• Anschlusstyp prüfen:
  Hat dein Laptop USB‑C, Thunderbolt, DisplayPort oder einen herstellerspezifischen Dock‑Port? Nur dieser entscheidet, welche Dockingstation passt.
• Unterstützte Funktionen:
  Nicht jeder Anschluss überträgt Strom, Daten und Bildsignale.
  → Prüfe, ob dein Port DisplayPort‑Alt‑Mode oder Thunderbolt unterstützt.
• Leistung und Stromversorgung:
  Die Dockingstation sollte genug Ladeleistung (Watt) für dein Notebook liefern, sonst lädt es nur langsam oder gar nicht.
• Kompatibilität prüfen:
  Achte auf Modell- und Markenkompatibilität.
  Am einfachsten suchst du nach Hersteller und Modell im IPC-Shop nach passenden Docks - Link
• Treiber und Firmware:
  Einige Docks (z. B. DisplayLink‑Modelle) brauchen Treiber – aktuelle Versionen installieren.
  Auch BIOS- und Firmware‑Updates können nötig sein.
• Anzahl und Art der Anschlüsse:
  Überlege, welche Monitore, USB‑Geräte oder Netzwerkkabel du anschließen willst.
  → Je nach Nutzung sind mehrere HDMI/DisplayPort‑Ausgänge oder LAN‑Ports sinnvoll.
• Zukunftssicherheit:
  Modelle mit Thunderbolt 4 oder USB4 sind meist abwärtskompatibel und länger nutzbar.

• Kabelqualität:
  Verwende das Original Kabel - Nur dann ist eine stabile Daten- und Bildübertragung sichergestellt.

   

Tipp:
In unserem Shop kannst du Dockingstations nach Laptop‑Hersteller, Anschlussart und Leistung filtern und so direkt passende Modelle finden.
Dockingstations bei IPC Computer

Mögliche Risiken und worauf du achten solltest:

• Überlastung der Stromversorgung:
  Wenn die Dockingstation zu wenig oder zu viel Leistung (Watt) liefert, kann der Laptop nicht richtig laden oder sich überhitzen.
• Billige oder minderwertige Docks:
  Günstige, unzertifizierte Produkte können zu Kurzschlüssen, Überhitzung oder Datenverlust führen.
  Empfehlung vom Notebook-Doktor:  Verwende nur Original Markenware oder die IPC-Computer Docks.
• Inkompatibler Anschluss:
  Ein falscher oder schlecht unterstützter USB‑C‑/Thunderbolt‑Port kann Hardwarefehler oder Ausfälleverursachen.
• Hohe Stromlast an USB‑Ports:
  Zu viele Geräte (externe Festplatten, Monitore, Ladegeräte) gleichzeitig anschließen kann zu Spannungseinbruch oder Instabilität führen.
• Treiber‑ oder Firmware‑Fehler:
  Veraltete Software kann Verbindungsabbrüche oder sogar Systemabstürze verursachen.
  → Regelmäßig Treiber und Firmware aktualisieren.
• Überhitzung bei Dauerbetrieb:
  Bei stark belasteten Docks (viele Monitore, Geräte, LAN) für ausreichende Belüftung sorgen.
• Firmware‑Sicherheitslücken:
  Einige Thunderbolt‑Docks können theoretisch Sicherheitslücken haben – Firmware aktuell halten schützt davor.

The most remarkeble advantages in comparison to USB3.0, are a faster data transmission rate and the possibility to charge the device via USB-C. Also is USB-C becoming the default option for more and more devices.

First and foremost, the difference lies in the connection type. Port replicators connect via a universal port such as USB, making them compatible with many devices. Docking stations are connected to the device via a proprietary interface and are therefore often compatible only with a laptop series. However, this allows more functionality, such as the laptop can be closed, or a power button on the dock itself. In addition, the docks are often like a cable, so the controller chip is in the laptop itself. This allows a higher bandwidth especially compared to USB. Often this is beneficial for connecting monitors and LAN.

If you work with many different devices or you do not need much functionality, e.g. only USB and audio, port replicator is suitable for you. Advanced functionality tailored to your device is more likely to be found in a docking station.

Port-Replicators which are connected via USB-C or Thunderbolt 3 often combine the benefits of normal Port- Replicators and Docking Stations. The standardized connection allows for compatibility with a multitude of devices, both connections have a high bandwidth. Therefore, you can not only connect USB-devices and card readers, but also LAN and multiple monitors. Additionally, they often allow for charging via the same cable used to connect them and even can turn the device on and off.

Whether you are looking for a replicator or a docking station, you will find the right device for your laptop in our shop.

On the one hand you have to consider the compatibility of your device. If your laptop has no USB-C connection, it can cause problems with newer models. On the other hand the port replicator has to produce enough power and can not convert less watts than your Notebook needs. At last you can choose how many and what type of connections for peripherals you need.

So nutzt du deine Dockingstation optimal:

• Anschluss prüfen:
  Überprüfe, welchen Anschluss dein Laptop hat – USB‑C, Thunderbolt oder proprietärer Dock‑Port – und verwende immer das Original Verbindungskabel.
• Kabel richtig anschließen:
  Dockingstation zuerst an Strom anschließen (falls Netzteil erforderlich), danach erst den Laptop verbinden.
• Reihenfolge beachten:
  Erst Dock mit Strom verbinden, danach Notebook anschließen, dann Peripherie (Monitor, Maus, Tastatur).
• Treiber installieren:
  Aktuelle Treiber oder Firmware vom Hersteller herunterladen und installieren, besonders bei DisplayLink‑ oder Thunderbolt‑Docks.
• Kabelqualität beachten:
  Verwende nur das Original Verbindungskabel - damit ist ein sicherer Betrieb sichergestellt
• Anschlüsse richtig nutzen:
  • Monitore an die vorgesehenen HDMI-, DisplayPort- oder USB‑C‑Videoausgänge anstecken
  • USB‑Geräte an die Datenports (blau markiert)
  • Netzwerk über LAN‑Port verbinden
• Stromversorgung prüfen:
  Viele Docks laden deinen Laptop automatisch. Achte darauf, dass die Leistung (Watt) ausreicht.
• Geräte sicher entfernen:
  Vor dem Abziehen des Kabels immer externe Laufwerke auswerfen, um Datenverlust zu vermeiden.
• Nicht überlasten:
  Zu viele angeschlossene Geräte (z. B. Monitore und Festplatten) können zu Leistungseinbußen führen. Lies in den Specs die max. unterstützen Geräte nach.
• Lüftung sicherstellen:
  Dockingstation sollte frei stehen, damit sie nicht überhitzt. Bei zu heißen Docks kann es zu Verbindungsabbrüchen und anderen Störungen kommen.
• Software-Einstellungen prüfen:
  In Windows unter „Anzeigeeinstellungen“ Monitore anordnen und Audioausgabe (Dock vs. Laptop) richtig einstellen.

am einfachsten: 

Shop‑Filter nutzen:
In unserem Online‑Shop kannst du gezielt nach Hersteller, Modell alle passenden Ersatzteile anzeigen lassen.
So siehst du nur Dockingstations, die technisch wirklich passen zu Deinem Gerät passen.
? Passende Dockingstations finden bei IPC Computer

weitere Möglichkeiten:

• Anschlussart prüfen:
  Schau, welchen Anschluss dein Laptop hat – USB‑C, Thunderbolt, proprietär (z. B. HP, Lenovo, Dell) oder ältere Docking‑Ports.
• Unterstützte Funktionen prüfen:
  Nicht jeder USB‑C‑Anschluss überträgt Bild, Daten und Strom.
  → Nur Anschlüsse mit DisplayPort‑Alt‑Mode oder Thunderbolt‑Unterstützung eignen sich für echte Dockingstations.
• Herstellerangaben lesen:
  In den Technischen Daten des Laptops steht oft, welche Dockingstations oder Protokolle unterstützt werden.
• Kompatibilitätslisten verwenden:
  Viele Hersteller geben auf ihren Webseiten oder im Handbuch eine Liste kompatibler Dockingstationen an.
• Leistungsanforderungen prüfen:
  Achte auf die benötigte Ladeleistung (Watt) deines Notebooks.
  Eine zu schwache Dock kann den Akku nicht ausreichend während des Betriebes laden.
• Betriebssystem-Kompatibilität:
  Manche Dockingstations funktionieren nur mit Windows, andere auch mit macOS oder Linux.
• Treiberpflichtige Modelle beachten:
  Einige Docks benötigen spezielle Treiber (DisplayLink, Thunderbolt).
  Prüfe, ob dein System diese unterstützt.
• Alte Dockingstationen:
  Mechanische oder herstellerspezifische Docks (z. B. alte HP‑ oder Dell‑Modelle) sind meist nicht mit neuen USB‑C‑Geräten nutzbar.

DisplayLink Treiber

MacOS

Windows

Intel 4965 AGN: Download

Realtek RTL8187L: Download

Atheros AR5B95: Download

Atheros AR5B195: Download

Atheros AR9002UB: Download

Our advantages for reslleres:

• Attractive Business prices with enhanced conditions
• Access to detailed exploded drawings of many manufacturers
• Technical support in case of notebook problems through our experts
• Personal contact
• Immediate delivery
• No shipping charges on orders of 150€ or more

Our reseller registration can be found here.

You can delete your account incl. all orderdatas under the following link

Delete account

Many spare parts are ordered directly from the manufacturer. Because we often order large quantities, we are offered attractive pricing, which we will gladly pass on to you.

Basically, we want to supply you with the correct and suitable spare part as quickly as possible. When ordering, please always tell us your exact notebook model using the spare part order number.

Please enter the model designation in the comments field when placing your order.

Here you will find an overview to identify your model.

If available, please always check again on the basis of the picture whether the spare part ordered is identical to the spare part you require. If you have any doubts based on the picture, please let us know. We will then check the conformity of the part in detail.

Die Reparaturdauer hängt vom Notebook‑Modell, vom Grad der Beschädigung und davon ab, ob ein einfaches LED‑Display oder eine komplette Displayeinheit verbaut ist. Dank unseres großen Ersatzteillagers am Standort Seelbach können wir jedoch in den meisten Fällen sehr kurze Durchlaufzeiten bieten. Wir haben immer über 10.000 Notebook Displays und Displayeinheiten lagernd.

1. Displaytausch in der Werkstatt

• In der Regel wird der Displaytausch innerhalb von nur einen Werktag nach Wareneingang in unserer Werkstatt durchgeführt.

2. Versandzeiten und Abläufe

Aufgrund unseres umfangreichen Lagers in Seelbach sind wir in der Lage, Bestellungen, die bis 12:00 Uhr eingehen, in der Regel noch am selben Tag zu versenden (ausgenommen Zahlungsart Vorausüberweisung).
Damit kannst du – sofern du dich innerhalb Deutschlands befindest und nicht weiter als etwa 700–800 km von Seelbach entfernt wohnst – bereits am nächsten Tag mit dem Wareneingang rechnen.

Die aktuellen Regel‑Laufzeiten und Versandkosten findest du hier - Link.

Zusammengefasst bedeutet das:

• Reparaturzeit in der Werkstatt: 95 der Display-Tausch Reparaturen  1 Werktag
• Versand (Hin‑ und Rückweg): in der Regel jeweils 1 Tag
• Gesamtdauer inkl. Versand: meist 3–4 Werktage von Einsendung bis Rückerhalt des Geräts

Damit sind wir in der Lage, einen Displaytausch besonders schnell und zuverlässig durchzuführen – oft innerhalb derselben Woche, in der das Gerät eingeht

Power sockets are often mechanically damaged. Since they cannot be associated with a notebook model they have to be compared using technical specification (inner-/outer diameter, number of pins). If you can exchange the socket yourself you can find spare parts in our shop. Please carefully compare the specification in the description and pictures to ensure you order the right one.

We will gladly repair your device for you. If you decided for a repair done by our specialists you can sign your notebook up here.

If a spare part is no longer available from IPC-Computer and the manufacturer, it will be displayed as EOL in the shop. The product can no longer be ordered in the shop. Nevertheless, we often receive further inquiries if we can deliver. We only show the status EOL if it is 100% guaranteed that an item can no longer be delivered.

If there is still a theoretical chance of availability, we always set the status: Items with delivery problems.

Almost all manufacturers set spare parts to EOL (= End of Life) status when they have been sold out. The article is then no longer available from the manufacturer and thus discontinued. The manufacturer is also no longer able or willing to produce this spare part.

When viewing spare parts in our shop, you sometimes find the notion "left/right" added to the title of e.g. rubber feet or fans. This describes on which side of the device the particular spare part will be installed. Important: left/right when looking at the device from the front.

The solution promise is our unique service promise to you:

If the battery you ordered does not solve your problem, you are guaranteed to receive support- from the free return of the battery to the repair of the laptop in our own workshop.

On our YouTube channel you can find many videos about the installation of different parts, however they are in German. The repairs done in these videos are only example and details can vary depending on your laptop.

Please also see "Wie öffne ich meinen Laptop? Die neue „do it yourself“ Video-Serie".

The exact model number is usually found on a label on the back of your device.

Here you can find some pictures with examples.

You can search by using the model-navigation on the top left of the site.

If you know the replacement part number of the part you need, you can enter it in the quick search. However, we still need the model number of your notebook to check the compatibility, please enter it in the comment field of your order.

Wenn du eine Datei löschst, wird sie vom Betriebssystem nicht sofort vollständig entfernt, sondern der Speicherplatz wird lediglich als „frei“ markiert. Deshalb ist es wichtig, nach einem Datenverlust keine weiteren Daten auf das betroffene Speichermedium zu schreiben, um die Chancen auf eine Wiederherstellung zu erhöhen. 

Oft lassen sich verlorene Dateien bereits über den Papierkorb oder die „Vorgängerversionen“ in Windows wiederherstellen; falls das nicht hilft, bieten spezielle Datenrettungsprogramme wie Stellar Data Recovery umfassende Möglichkeiten. 

Die Software sucht nach wiederherstellbaren Dateien auf dem ausgewählten Medium und ermöglicht, diese auf einem separaten Speicherort zu sichern – das betroffene Laufwerk sollte nicht weiter benutzt werden, um Überschreiben zu vermeiden. 

Auch wenn eine Festplatte formatiert oder eine Partition gelöscht wurde, kann eine Datenrettungssoftware oft noch viele Dateien rekonstruieren, wobei die ursprüngliche Ordnerstruktur jedoch verloren gehen kann.

Mehr dazu in diesem Video:

There are three different types of graphics cards or graphics chips in Notebooks:

1. External graphics cards which can be plugged into the notebook.
2. Internal, dedicated graphics cards, e.g. Chip soldered on the Mainboard
3. Internal, integrated graphics, which are a part of the CPU.

With the first type, an exchange of the GPU is usually not a problem, some manufacturers have their own type of proprietary connectors for external GPUs you can purchase and connect one from them directly. There is also Thunderbolt 3 which is present on some modern Notebooks. It allows the connection of an external graphics card from any vendor.

If your GPU is soldered on the mainboard either as a dedicated GPU chip or as part of the CPU an upgrade is almost impossible since it would have to be soldered on and also usually only one chip is compatible with the motherboard and firmware.

Even if the GPU is in a slot like the MXM-slot, which is often found in older laptops, an upgrade is usually not possible. This is due to some measurements not being standardized, the cooling solution not being able to handle a more powerful card or firmware issues.

A Display that stays completely dark is often an indicator for a broken graphics card.

To make sure it is not a defect of the Display itself, plug the Notebook into an external monitor. If it displays a picture the graphics card is not defect but your Laptops internal display. In most cases a broken graphics card cannot be repaired, it has to be replaced.

UMA is an integrated GPU or onboard graphics that, unlike DIS graphics, does not have its own RAM and is usually only used in office devices.

DIS is a dedicated GPU graphic that, unlike UMA graphics, has its own RAM and is mostly used in gaming devices.

Detailed information about the graphics of your model can be found in your instructions or directly from the manufacturer.

Yes, the SATA standards are compatible to each other, however the slowest involved connection type will  always be used. This means that connecting a SATA 6Gb/s SSD to a SATA 3Gb/s controller will severely limit its peak performance.

More information can be found in the FAQ “What is the difference between P-ATA (IDE), S-ATA, S-ATA II and S-ATA III?”

You can use the disk management utility built into Windows 10.

1. Hit the Windows key and type "Control Panel", then hit enter
2. Left click on Administrative Tools
3. Select Computer Management and then Disk Management.
4. After a short loading time you will be shown all connected drive with their respective partitions.
5. Right click on the unformatted drive and click format.
6. Follow the wizard to complete the formatting process.

Just like detailed in the FAQ “What is S.M.A.R.T. and what is it for?” S.M.A.R.T. is an industry standard for the constant monitoring of disk parameters like temperature and read- or write errors. With its help errors can be detected before they happen, the data can be backed up and the drive replaced.

However even with careful monitoring the death of a hard drive can always happen unexpectedly. This is why it is very important to back up important data like invoices or family photos to an external hard drive or the cloud. This should be done in regular intervals so that you always have a complete backup of your data.

If your hard drive breaks a data recovery is expensive and time consuming and not always possible.
The operation in a notebook does not prolong the life of a hard drive. First this is because of the shock and vibrations when moving the device. This can cause the read/write head to crash into the platters in the wort case breaking this head. Move your device carefully while it is on, or even better avoid moving it at all.  Secondly, due to the compact formfactor notebooks usually get very warm. That is why putting your device on a notebook cooler can improve the performance and lifespan of your device. Modern solid-state drives are a lot more resilient to shock and heat and therefore more durable, than traditional hard drives.

• What is S.M.A.R.T. and what is it for

When swapping out your hard drive please also attach the mounting bracket from the old one to the new one. You also have to be extremely careful not to damage any of the plugs and connectors on the mainboard or the drive.

First thing to consider is the size of the drive. Most M.2 SSDs come in the 2280 form factor. The first two digits indicate the width of the drive in millimeters and the last two, sometimes three digits its length. Other sizes for M.2 cards are 2242, 2260 and 22110, which is sometimes found in servers.

The other difference is in the protocol the drive uses to communicate with the PC. Often less expensive M.2 SSDs still use the SATA protocol, which is also used by drives with more common formfactors. Even though it is rather slow for an SSD, it should still be fast enough for most users. Modern, high-performance M.2 drives use the NVMe protocol which is transmitted via PCI Express. Oftentimes slots, which support PCIe also support SATA, but bevor buying a drive, double check that it is fully compatible.

There are also certain keys, which can give away information about the type of connection used. An SSD with only the M-Key usually uses PCI Express, whereas an SSD with the M- and the B-key usually uses the SATA protocol. The A- and E-key is often used for Wi-Fi cards.

The most used file systems are:

• FAT 16, FAT 32 (Windows 95, 98, ME, XP)
• NTFS (Windows NT, 2000, XP, Vista, 7, 8, 8.1)
• EXT 2 (Linux)
• HFS, HFS+ (Apple Macintosh)

However nowadays most Windows computers use NTFS for their hard drives

The various FAT formats are only used in USB sticks or memory cards.

You have to pay attention, that your hard drive uses the same connection type and form factor or height.

With the very common 2.5” hard drives you have to check whether your notebook still uses the old PATA standard or SATA and also you have to check what height is compatible since there are multiple heights. 7mm, 9mm and 15mm are the most common ones.

For SSDs there are also small form actors like mSATA or M.2. With the latter one you have to check if the slot supports the SATA and/or PCIe (NVMe) protocol.

The only thing that is not limited is the capacity and speed of your new drive.

Our notebook technicians use the following tools for checking the health of disk:

• CrystalDiscInfo (Freeware)
  This tool reports all kinds of data concerning the hard drive, like power-on hours and S.M.A.R.T. values.

CrystalDiscInfo

• HD-Tune Pro (Shareware)
  This tool offers a great sector test, whose result is displayed graphically.

HD-Tune Pro

If single sectors of a disk are defective, the data can be cloned to another hard drive. Our technicians use the following tools for this:

• Norton Ghost
• Acronis True Image
• Paragon Disc Manager

When installing a Samsung SSD in your notebook you can use their “Magician” Tool to migrate your data to the new SSD. It is included in the delivery of our Samsung SSD's.

To increase the reliability of hard drives and the data security hard drive manufacturers have developed the Self-Monitoring Analysis and Reporting Technology (S.M.A.R.T.). it can read important information about the drive like temperature, power-on time and read-/write errors.

On a hard drive there are so-called sectors. These are the smallest parts than can be read or written to the disk. Traditionally they were 512 Bytes in size. But this allows only so much data to be stored with a given number of sectors. That is why 4 Kilobyte sectors where introduced, these can store eight times the data of 512 Byte sectors. However, not every Operating System and every application were compatible with these larger sectors. This is why manufactures introduced emulated 512 Byte large sectaries (512e). With these the hard drive splits the four Kb sectors into eight 512 Byte sectors, so the OS thinks, that the hard drive has 512 Byte sectors. 512n stand for those drive which have native 512 Byte sectors.

The difference is in the type of connection and its speed.

• P-ATA/IDE (IDE 100/133) Parallel connection with transfer rates of up to 1 Gbit/s or 100 MB/s to 133 MB/s.
• S-ATA (SATA 150) Serial connection with transfer rates of up to 1.5 Gbit/s or 150 MB/s.
• S-ATA II (SATA 300) Serial connection with transfer rates of up to 3.0 Gbit/s or 300 MB/s.
• S-ATA III (SATA Revision 3.0) Serial connection with transfer rates of up to 6.0 Gbit/s or 600 MB/s.

HDDs or hard disk drives are the most common way of storing large amounts of data in a computer. The data is stored on spinning disks coated with a magnetic material, when writing the polarization of a small part of this coating is reversed by the read-write-head. The polarization can be read by the head later on, to retrieve the data stored on the disks. Since the platters are turning, the read-write head often has to wait until the right part of the disks is under it, to read/write data. This makes HDDs a relatively slow storage medium, especially for randomly accessed data. However, through continuously shrinking the individual magnetic parts and increasing the number of platters per drive, a lot of data can be stored on them. In 2017 it was already up to 14TB per drive.

Unlike HDDs, SSDs or solid-state drives have no moving parts. The information is stored with the help of transistor. This means that no time is wasted waiting for the right part of the platter to arrive to read/write to/from it, therefore SSDS are a lot faster. For one of the fastest SSDs on the market the manufacturer claims speeds up to 3,5GB/s, that is more than 16 times as much as a modern HDD. Additionally, SSDs are much more rugged and long-lived due to the lack of moving parts. Unfortunately, they are a lot more expensive per GB than HDDs and the biggest consumer drives are "only" 4TB in size.

SSHDs, which is short for solid state hybrid drives are a combination of HDDs and SSDs. A small SSD, often 8 to 16 GB is used to cache the data for a 1 to 2 TB HDD. In the cache frequently accessed data and data, that has just been written is stored making the drive a lot faster, when accessing this data. However, when accessing infrequently used data or writing a lot of data to the drive, the solid-state cache can no longer be used and performance drops to the level of an HDD.

If you are interested in buying a new drive, our shop has a lot of different types of drives.

New hard drives are often delivered unpartitioned, the user can decide for himself what kind of file system he would like to use. The Windows Explorer will not recognize these and won’t display them. You can take a look at our FAQ “How can I format or partition a hard drive?” to partition and be able to use your new drive.

• How can I format or partition a hard drive

Harddrive manufacturers calculate the size using a base of one thousand. That means that 1 KB = 1000 Byte. However the more common calculation uses a base of 2 to the power of 10 or 1 Kb = 1024 Byte.

This small difference appears when going from Byte to KB, to MB and to GB that is why in the end there is a sizable difference between advertised and usable capacity.

Das Öffnen eines Laptops erfordert Sorgfalt, das richtige Werkzeug und etwas Erfahrung.

Grundregeln beim Öffnen:

• Gerät vollständig vom Strom trennen und, falls möglich, Akku entfernen bzw. stromlos schalten.
• Geeignetes Feinmechanik‑Werkzeug und ESD‑Schutz verwenden.
• Gehäuseschrauben systematisch lösen und Bodenabdeckung vorsichtig mit einem Kunststoff‑Tool abheben.
• Keine Gewalt anwenden – viele Geräte besitzen versteckte Schrauben unter Gummifüßen oder Aufklebern.

In unserer Reihe „Mein Laptop von innen“ zeigen wir anschaulich, wie verschiedene Notebook‑Modelle aufgebaut sind und welche Schritte nötig sind, um sie sicher zu öffnen.

Die Videos helfen dir, die Bauweise unterschiedlicher Marken (z. B. HP, Lenovo, Dell, Acer) besser zu verstehen und zeigen, wo sich Akku, Mainboard oder RAM befinden.
Wenn du dir beim Öffnen unsicher bist oder fest verbaute Komponenten besitzt, übernehmen unsere Techniker in der Werkstatt den sicheren Ausbau und die Reparatur.

Unfortunately, this s not possible for multiple reasons:

• No manufacturer sells single key-caps, only whole keyboards.
• There are way too many designs, holding-clips variants, color differences.
• There are multiple thousand different keyboards from different manufacturers.
• Sometimes even the same notebook model uses different keyboards
• Carrying that many different spare parts is almost impossible for manufacturers and sellers

This is technically possible, to help you with the repair we have some exemplary instructions. 

You can only install keyboards intended for the use in your model. So, when your current keyboard does not have a numpad you will not be able to install one with a numpad, since they would be too large. The same is true for keyboards with numpad, ones without numpad would then be too small.

However, there is the option to use an external numpad connected via USB.

The FN-key is similar to the shift or the alt-key. Oftentimes there are secondary functions marked by a different color, which can be accessed by pressing the FN-key and the respective key.

Usually these are functions like volume up or down, mute, changing the brightness of the screen or media controls.

In Windows 10 hit the Windows-key and type "language", then hit the enter-key. In the settings menu that opens klick the plus sign next to "Add a language" and select the language you wish to add. It could be, that the Layout might still need to be downloaded, so make sure your computer is connected to the internet. When you left-click on a language, further options appear such as making it the default language. When you have two or more available keyboard layouts, there will be the abbreviation of the layout you are currently using in the bottom right in the taskbar. You can change the layout by clicking on it. 

The part number can be found on the back of the keyboard. To view it the notebook has to be disassembled. 

The picture below shows a possibility, what the labeling might look like and which numbers are relevant for your search for a new keyboard. With this number you can find a replacement in our shop. 

• Can I exchange my keyboard myself

The easiest option is to search for your notebook model in our Shop. We will then list all the keyboards, that are compatible with your device. 

Should you not be able to find the keyboard like this, you can try searching for its part number. 

• Where can I find the part number of my keyboard

Most countries have their own keyboard Layout. Usually the device has the layout of the country it has been bought in.

The English layout can be recognized by the first six Characters of the top row of letters. That's also why it is called QWERTY-layout, another common abbreviation for it would be ENG-layout.

There can be multiple reasons for its failure.

• It could be an error in your operating system, for example, when the wrong input language is selected.
• The keyboard controller IC on the Mainboard could be damaged.
• Dirt, like food or dust could be stuck in the keyboard.

Das Öffnen eines Laptops erfordert Sorgfalt, das richtige Werkzeug und etwas Erfahrung.

Grundregeln beim Öffnen:

• Gerät vollständig vom Strom trennen und, falls möglich, Akku entfernen bzw. stromlos schalten.
• Geeignetes Feinmechanik‑Werkzeug und ESD‑Schutz verwenden.
• Gehäuseschrauben systematisch lösen und Bodenabdeckung vorsichtig mit einem Kunststoff‑Tool abheben.
• Keine Gewalt anwenden – viele Geräte besitzen versteckte Schrauben unter Gummifüßen oder Aufklebern.

In unserer Reihe „Mein Laptop von innen“ zeigen wir anschaulich, wie verschiedene Notebook‑Modelle aufgebaut sind und welche Schritte nötig sind, um sie sicher zu öffnen.

Die Videos helfen dir, die Bauweise unterschiedlicher Marken (z. B. HP, Lenovo, Dell, Acer) besser zu verstehen und zeigen, wo sich Akku, Tastatur oder RAM befinden.
Wenn du dir beim Öffnen unsicher bist oder fest verbaute Komponenten besitzt, übernehmen unsere Techniker in der Werkstatt den sicheren Ausbau und die Reparatur.

Yes, you can replace the fan in many notebooks yourselfwith a little technical skill - provided you work carefully.

1. It is important to disconnect the power supply and remove the battery before removing the fan to avoid short circuits.
2. How to open your laptop is clearly explained in over 250 different videos in the "My laptop from the inside" series - you are sure to find your device.
3. The fan is usually attached with a few screws and connected to the mainboard via a small plug.
4. After removing the old fan, the old thermal paste on the CPU and GPU should be replaced so that the heat is optimally dissipated again.

If you would prefer to have our team of technicians replace the fan straight away, you can order the corresponding repair order for an immediate repair here.

Want to know how much the fan repair will cost? Then you can find the fan price for the corresponding notebook model and the price for the repair in the repair price list.

• When should you replace the laptop fan?

Clear recommendation: If possible, you should always use an original fan from the notebook manufacturer.

Advantages of original fans
Original parts are precisely matched to the respective notebook model and offer the required reliability:

• Accurate fit: they fit mechanically and electrically 100 %.
• Optimum control: They guarantee optimum speed and temperature control.
• Quality: They meet the required quality to always cool the laptop properly.

The risk with replica fans
Although replica fans are cheaper, they carry an incalculable risk:

• Fluctuating quality: the quality (especially noise development and bearing of the fan wheel) varies greatly, as there are no uniform quality standards.
• Risk of overheating: If the processor and/or graphics chip are no longer cooled properly, there is a risk of overheating and therefore usually a total economic loss of your laptop.

Conclusion: Go for tested quality so as not to jeopardize the service life of your device.

Here you will find hundreds of original notebook fans and tested spare parts in the store.

You should replace the laptop fan if it makes unusual noises, runs constantly at maximum speed or no longer starts at all.

Clear warning signs of wear

• Noises: Typical signs are rattling, clacking or grinding noises - they indicate bearing damage or wear .
• Lack of cooling: Strongly fluctuating speeds or sudden temperature increases despite cleaned cooling fins are also warning signs.
• Consequence: If the cooling is no longer sufficient, this can lead to automatic shutdowns, drops in performance or permanent damage to the hardware.

In such cases, it is worth replacing it with an original spare part, as a new, quiet fan restores optimum cooling performance - so that your notebook works reliably, remains stable and lasts noticeably longer.

You can find suitable models in the IPC Computer Shop - matched exactly to the manufacturer and serial number.

• Should I always buy an original fan when replacing a fan?

Yes, you can influence the fan behavior in many notebooks. The setting depends on the manufacturer and model and can be made in three main ways:

1. BIOS: Some BIOS versions offer profiles such as Silent, Balance or Performance, which adjust the speed curve.
2. Manufacturer software: Brands such as Asus (Armoury Crate), Lenovo (Vantage) or MSI (Dragon Center) offer special tools for control.
3. Windows: The Windows energy settings can be used to indirectly reduce the maximum performance and thus the heat development.

Important warning for manual settings

• Temperature risk: Manually lowering the fan speed reduces noise, but increases the temperature of the CPU and graphics chip.
• Service life: Permanently high temperatures shorten the service life of the hardware and can lead to damage.

Tip: If you adjust the fan behavior, ensure sufficient cooling and check the temperatures regularly with tools such as HWMonitor or Core Temp.

If the fan is too loud despite the correct settings or is constantly running at full throttle, there is probably a fault with the fan or temperature sensor.

You can find original notebook fans in the IPC Computer Shop.

If your notebook fan is constantly running loudly, this is usually due to dust deposits, high system load or worn bearings.

Steps to reduce noise

1. First, carefully clean the ventilation slots and cooling fins with compressed air, a hair dryer or, if necessary, a vacuum cleaner or a fine brush - this alone often significantly reduces the noise level.
2. Then check the Task Manager to see whether programs are causing a high processor or graphics load and update the BIOS and fan control if necessary.
3. If this does not help, this indicates a defective fan - a replacement is then advisable. Our Service Center will be happy to help you with a repair.

In the IPC Computer Shop you will find original notebook fans for almost all models - perfectly fitting, quiet and durable.
A functioning fan ensures stable cooling, prevents the CPU and graphics chip (VGA)from overheating and thus protects the sensitive electronics.

The result: your laptop stays quiet, cool - and lasts longer.

If the laptop fan no longer starts at all, there is usually an electrical problem, a control error or a mechanical problem.

First steps for diagnosis

1. First of all, you should check whether the fan starts up very briefly when you switch it on - this shows that there is power.

2. If it remains completely still, the cause may be dust blockages, a cable break, a loose plug connection or a defective temperature sensor. We also see time and again at the Service Center that fans block completely even when the external body is tightened.

   An outdated BIOS or incorrect energy profiles can also lead to the fan no longer being activated.

   → Therefore, only carry out a BIOS update according to the manufacturer's instructions and then test whether the fan switches on again normally.

If it does not react despite cleaning, plug check and correct settings, the fan itself is probably electrically defective- the only solution here is to replace it. You can buy new original fans here.

• When should you replace the laptop fan?

If your laptop fan is constantly running, this is usually due to a high system load or insufficient heat dissipation.

Common causes

• The air outlets or cooling fins are often blocked by dust, causing the heat to build up and the fan to start up more frequently to reduce the temperature.
• Background processes, Windows updates or resource-intensive programs can also place a heavy load on the processor and thus influence the fan behavior.

First steps to remedy the problem

1. First clean the ventilation slots carefully,
2. end unnecessary tasks in the Task Manager and
3. check whether the BIOS version and energy profiles are up to date.

If the fan runs continuously despite cleaning and a low load, there may be a faulty temperature sensor or fan wear - only a professional replacement will help here - also in our Notebook-Doktor workshop.

In the IPC-Computer-Shop you can obtain original replacement fans and cooling modules that are precisely matched to your notebook model.
Your device will work again with optimum temperature control, remain quieter - and last longer in the long term.

• How can I cool my laptop better?

Yes, a laptop can actually be damaged by permanently high temperatures. Electronic components such as the CPU, GPU, voltage converter and battery react sensitively to thermal stress. Above a CPU temperature of around 90 °C or a GPU temperature of 85 °C, many devices start to throttle automatically ("thermal throttling") in order to protect themselves. However, if this protection limit is exceeded frequently or over a longer period of time, the following damage will occur:

1. Ageing of semiconductors and solder joints:
   Repeated thermal expansion and contraction cause microcracks in BGA solder joints and in the silicon. This can lead to contact loss ("cold solder joint") and false starts in the long term, particularly in graphics units and chipsets.
2. Damage to the battery and voltage converters:
   Lithium-ion battery cells age exponentially faster with every temperature rise above 40 °C. Above approx. 60 °C, electrolytes can decompose, causing loss of capacity, swelling or even internal short circuits.
3. Softening and deformation of plastic and adhesive connections:
   Fan bearings, heat conducting pads or housing clips can warp or leak, which further impairs heat dissipation - a vicious circle of heat and mechanical fatigue.

This is why regular cleaning of the cooling system, replacement of the thermal paste and, if necessary, the replacement of worn fans is crucial to keep temperatures stable. The optimum operating temperature is usually between 50 - 75 °C. If these values are adhered to, performance is fully maintained and the service life of the components increases significantly.

If your laptop overheats, you should proceed systematically to narrow down the cause and prevent damage. It is crucial to relieve the cooling system and restore heat dissipation.

• Immediate measures:
  • Switch off the device and disconnect it from the power supply.
  • Place the laptop on a hard, smooth surface - never on cushions or blankets.
  • Check openings for supply and exhaust air for dust deposits; if possible, clean carefully with compressed air or a suitable dust brush.
  • After a short cooling phase, the appliance can be switched on again and the fan function checked acoustically.
• Check the cooling capacity:
  • Common causes: Blocked or dirty ventilation is the most common cause. If the fan can no longer be heard or is constantly running at high speed, there may be a mechanical defect or hardened heat-conducting paste.
  • Temperature check: You can use programs such as AIDA64, HWinfo or BatteryMon to read out the temperatures live. Temperatures above 85 °C indicate cooling problems.
  • Energy options: Reduce the waste heat additionally by adjusting the Windows energy options (e.g. to "Balanced").
• Permanent solutions:
  • Use a cooling pad to improve fresh air supply.
  • Have the interior cleaned and the fan replaced in a specialist workshop if the device is already several years old.
  • For laptops subject to heavy use (e.g. gaming or CAD devices), check whether a more powerful original fan or a replacement fan with a higher flow rate is available.
• Prevention:
  • Remove dust from the laptop regularly and ensure sufficient air circulation.
  • Do not use it continuously at room temperatures above 30 °C.
  • Use suitable tools to check the temperature regularly in order to detect a gradual reduction in cooling performance in good time.

In this way, overheating can be safely controlled before component damage or thermal throttling occurs. Professional maintenance - especially fan and thermal paste service - then ensures stable operating temperatures in the long term.

• How can I additionally cool my laptop?
• Can my laptop break down if the temperature is too high?

The difference lies in the size of the component:

• The fan is the moving component that draws in air and directs it through the heat sink to dissipate heat.
• The cooling module, on the other hand, consists of the entire cooling system- i.e. the fan plus the metal heatpipes and the heat sink above the CPU and graphics chip.

In many notebooks, the fan and cooling module arescrewed or glued together so that they have to be replaced together.

• If the fan is defective but the cooling module is intact,often only the fan can be replaced as a single part- this saves costs and material.
• However, if the fan is very dirty, the heatpipes are warped or the thermal paste has dried up, we recommend replacing the entire cooling module.
• In some cases, coolant is also installed in the cooling units. If this has leaked out, cooling is no longer guaranteed. The complete heat sink must then be replaced.

Find suitable fans and complete cooling modules (heatsinks) in our store.

1. Optimize heat dissipation:
   • An active cooling pad with integrated fans directs cool ambient air under the casing, thus lowering the temperature of the base plate.
   • It is important that the air openings of your notebook are directed downwards or sideways so that the additional airflow actually supports the internal heat transfer.
   • Passive aluminum pads are less effective, but can improve heat dissipation thanks to their conductive surface.
2. Reduce the heat source technically:
   • The main heat generators are the CPU and GPU. Waste heat can be measurably reduced by reducing the clock frequency ("Power Limit" or "Thermal Design Power Control" in the BIOS) and by undervolting.
   • In addition, heat sinks and thermal paste should be replaced regularly - a professional replacement of the thermal paste typically lowers the chip temperature by 5-10 °C.
3. Airflow and internal cleaning:
   • Accumulated dust impedes the airflow of the internal fans. Professional cleaning - with partial removal of the fan and replacement of the thermal pads - restores the original air flow rate. In many cases, this is enough to completely prevent thermal throttling.
   • Notebooks with modular fans can also be fitted with higher-quality original replacement fans, which achieve a higher airflow rate at the same noise level.
4. Practical operation:
   • The laptop should be operated on a hard, smooth surface, never on fabric or soft surfaces, as this obstructs the supply of cooling air to the intake openings.
   • Room temperatures above 30 °C should be avoided; every 1 K reduction in the ambient air temperature improves the cooling performance by 2-3 %, depending on the model.

Find suitable replacement fans and coolers here in the store.

Regular care and optimum air circulation are crucial to keep your laptop cool and efficient at all times.

Prevention & basics

• Clean the ventilation slots and cooling fins carefully with compressed air or a brush at least twice a year to prevent dust from settling in the cooling system
• Surface: Make sure to use the appliance on a hard, flat surface - the exhaust air can be blocked on cushions or blankets.
• Lifting: Powerful laptops often draw in air from below. In this case, it helps to raise the device slightly and "jack it up" at the back

Additional aids

• A cooling pad with an active fan also helps to noticeably reduce the temperature - especially during computing-intensive use or gaming.
• The maximum processor performance can also be slightly reduced via the Windows energy options, which reduces heat development and fan speed.
• Check the temperatures regularly with tools such as HWMonitor or Core Temp.

If your device gets too hot or switches itself off despite all measures, professional cleaning or replacing the thermal paste or the fan may be necessary.

For good cooling, your laptop should be placed on a hard, smooth and air-permeable surface - for example, on a desk, an aluminum or glass plate. This allows the air under the device to circulate freely and the heat to dissipate better.

Soft surfaces such as comforters, pillows or your lap block the air supply - this quickly leads to the CPU and graphics unit overheating.

The best cooling tips

• Using a notebook stand is even better. It raises the device slightly, improves the airflow and at the same time ensures a more ergonomic working position.
• Models with an integrated cooling or USB fan also increase the cooling performance, especially for powerful or older laptops.
• Also make sure that the back is slightly raised - just a few millimetres will ensure significantly better air circulation.

This means your laptop works more quietly, stays cooler - and has been proven to last longer.

IPC Computer ist ein unabhängiger Notebook‑Reparaturdienstleister und nicht Teil des offiziellen Medion‑Garantie‑Netzwerks. Das bedeutet:
Reparaturen bei IPC Computer werden außerhalb der Medion‑Garantie oder Gewährleistung durchgeführt – also dann, wenn der Hersteller‑Support ausgelaufen ist oder eine wirtschaftlichere Alternative gesucht wird.

Wenn du prüfen möchtest, ob dein Medion‑Notebook noch Garantie hat, kannst du das direkt auf der offiziellen Medion‑Support‑Seite tun. Dort gibst du einfach die Seriennummer (MSN oder MD‑Nummer) deines Geräts ein und siehst sofort, ob und wie lange noch Herstellergarantie besteht.

Zur Medion‑Support‑Seite:www.medion.com/de/service

Sollte dein Gerät nicht mehr in der Garantiezeit sein oder Medion dir nur den teuren Komplettaustausch anbieten, übernimmt IPC Computer gerne die fachgerechte Reparatur.
Unsere Techniker reparieren defekte Einzelkomponenten wie Strombuchsen, Ladeelektronik, Mainboards, Displays oder Tastaturen kompetent und kostenoptimiert – eine nachhaltige Lösung, wenn sich eine Herstellergarantie nicht mehr lohnt. Link zur Reparatur-Anmeldung.

Der Unterschied zwischen einer Reparatur bei IPC Computer und dem klassischen Service von Medion liegt vor allem im technischen Ansatz und im Umgang mit defekten Komponenten. Während Medion im Reparaturfall häufig auf den Komplettaustausch ganzer Baugruppen – z. B. Mainboards – setzt, fokussiert sich IPC Computer auf die gezielte Reparatur einzelner Komponenten. Das macht die Reparatur oft günstiger, ressourcenschonender und langfristig nachhaltiger.

Die wichtigsten Gründe im Überblick:

1. Gezielte Einzelkomponenten‑Reparatur statt Komplettaustausch
   Medion bietet bei Defekten in der Regel nur einen vollständigen Austausch des betroffenen Bauteils oder sogar des gesamten Geräts an.
   IPC Computer hingegen analysiert den Schaden präzise und repariert defekte Einzelkomponenten.
   Typische Beispiele sind Strombuchsenschäden, Kurzschlüsse im Eingangskreis oder defekte Ladeschaltungen – Reparaturen, die in unserer Fachwerkstatt auf Bauteilebene fachgerecht und zuverlässig durchgeführt werden. Link zur Reparatur-Beauftragung.
   So bleibt deine vorhandene Hardware erhalten, und unnötiger Elektronikschrott wird vermieden.
2. Geringere Kosten durch Reparatur statt Austausch
   Ein neues Mainboard ist oft der teuerste Bestandteil eines Notebooks – nicht selten mehrere Hundert Euro.
   Durch die gezielte Instandsetzung der defekten Stelle anstatt eines teuren Kompletttauschs bist du bei IPC Computer deutlich kosteneffizienter aufgestellt.
   Was beim Hersteller schnell zu einem wirtschaftlichen Totalschaden führen kann, ist bei IPC Computer häufig wirtschaftlich sinnvoll reparabel. Link zum Shop.
3. Nachhaltigkeit durch Ressourcenschonung und Lebensdauerverlängerung
   Jede Reparatur statt Austausch reduziert den Verbrauch seltener Rohstoffe, verringert Elektroschrott und spart Energie, die sonst für Produktion und Transport neuer Bauteile nötig wäre.
   Dadurch wird dein Notebook nicht nur wieder funktionstüchtig, sondern auch umweltfreundlich instand gesetzt.
   Gleichzeitig verlängert die Reparatur die Lebensdauer deines Geräts erheblich – du nutzt vorhandene Technik weiter, anstatt sie zu entsorgen.
4. Qualitäts‑ und Funktionsprüfung nach jeder Reparatur
   Nach der Reparatur erfolgt eine umfassende technische Endkontrolle inklusive Belastungstest und Funktionsprüfung aller Schnittstellen.
   Damit stellen wir sicher, dass dein Notebook wie neu funktioniert – ohne Einschränkungen oder versteckte Folgeschäden.
5. Transparente Preise und klare Pauschalen
   Für häufige Reparaturen bietet IPC Computer standardisierte Pauschalpreise, z. B. für Displaytausch, Strombuchsenreparatur, Mainboard‑Reparatur oder Windows 11‑Upgrade.
   So hast du jederzeit volle Kostentransparenz – keine Überraschungen, keine verdeckten Zusatzkosten. Link zur Preisliste

Fazit:
Reparaturen bei IPC Computer sind technisch durchdachter, nachhaltiger und oft kostengünstiger als beim Hersteller‑Service von Medion.
Durch die Reparatur defekter Einzelkomponenten statt teurer Komplettaustausche sparst du Geld, Zeit und Ressourcen, verlängerst die Lebensdauer deines Notebooks und tust gleichzeitig etwas für die Umwelt.

Die IPC‑Fachwerkstatt bietet dir Service‑Leistungen auf technischem Top‑Niveau und steht für echte Handwerksqualität, Tiefenkompetenz und Kundennähe – ein deutlicher Unterschied zum standardisierten Herstellerservice von Medion. Statt teurem Komplettaustausch bekommst du bei IPC Computer eine präzise, nachhaltige Reparaturlösung – „Made in Germany“.

Unsere Stärken im Überblick:

1. Über 20 Jahre Erfahrung in Notebook‑Reparatur
   Seit mehr als zwei Jahrzehnten ist IPC Computer auf die Reparatur von Notebooks spezialisiert – für nahezu alle Marken und Modelle.
   Das bedeutet: fundierte Praxiserfahrung, tiefes Elektronik‑Know‑how und beständige Qualität bei jeder einzelnen Reparatur.
2. Mehr als 35.000 durchgeführte Laptop‑Reparaturen
   Diese beeindruckende Zahl steht für Erfahrung, Kontinuität und technisches Vertrauen.
   Jeder dieser Aufträge liefert weitere Erkenntnisse über typische Schwachstellen, effektive Diagnoseroutinen und bewährte Reparaturverfahren.
   Das macht IPC Computer zu einem der erfahrensten Notebook‑Reparatur‑Spezialisten im deutschsprachigen Raum.
3. Eigene Werkstatt mit geschulten Technikern – kein Outsourcing
   Alle Arbeiten erfolgen in der hauseigenen IPC‑Werkstatt durch erfahrene Notebook‑Techniker.
   Hersteller wie Medion tauschen bei Schäden wie Kurzschluss im Eingangskreis, defekter Akkuladeschaltung oder einer defekten Strombuchse meist das komplette Mainboard – eine teure Lösung, die schnell zum wirtschaftlichen Totalschaden führt.
   IPC Computer repariert diese Schäden gezielt auf Bauteilebene, was Kosten spart, Ressourcen schont und Geräte zuverlässig instandsetzt.
4. Reparatur direkt in Deutschland
   Alle Einsendungen bleiben im Land – keine langen Versandwege, keine Auslandsabwicklung.
   Das sorgt für kurze Reparaturzeiten, Nachvollziehbarkeit und besten Qualitätsstandard.
5. Funktionsprüfung, Reinigung und Qualitätskontrolle nach jeder Reparatur
   Nach jeder Instandsetzung erfolgt eine vollständige technische Prüfung inklusive Belastungstests, Reinigung von Innenraum und Lüftern sowie einer finalen Qualitätskontrolle.
   So erhältst du dein Gerät sauber, geprüft und sofort einsatzbereit zurück.

Fazit:
Mit über 35.000 erfolgreich durchgeführten Notebook‑Reparaturen und über 20 Jahren Erfahrung steht IPC Computer für Verlässlichkeit, Beständigkeit und tiefes Technikverständnis.
Durch die eigene Werkstatt, nachhaltige Reparaturmethoden und Qualität „Made in Germany“ bietet IPC Computer einen echten Mehrwert gegenüber dem herkömmlichen Medion‑Service.

Medion ist toll

IPC Computer repariert grundsätzlich alle Medion‑Notebooks und Convertible‑Modelle, unabhängig vom Alter oder der Gerätegeneration. Dank langjähriger Erfahrung und direktem Zugriff auf Ersatzteile kann unser Technik‑Team sowohl aktuelle Serien als auch ältere Modelle fachgerecht instand setzen.

Repariert werden unter anderem:

• Medion Akoya – klassische Notebooks und Multimedia‑Laptops für den Alltags‑ und Bürogebrauch
• Medion Erazer – Gaming‑Notebooks mit leistungsstarken Mainboards und dedizierten Grafikkarten
• Medion E‑Series, S‑Series und P‑Series – vom Einsteiger‑ bis zum Premium‑Gerät
• Medion Convertible‑Notebooks – 2‑in‑1‑Geräte mit Touch‑Displays und Hybrid‑Funktion
• Medion Chromebooks und Ultrabooks – kompakte Geräte mit energieeffizienten Komponenten

Unsere hauseigene Fachwerkstatt führt Reparaturen an Mainboards, Strombuchsen, Displays, Tastaturen, Lüftern, Akkus, SSDs und weiteren Komponenten durch – je nach Fehlerbild auf Bauteilebene oder durch Teilereparatur. Link zur Preisliste.

Auch wenn Medion selbst ältere Modelle oft nicht mehr direkt unterstützt oder nur den Komplettaustausch anbietet, kann IPC Computer dank eigenem Ersatzteillager und Cross‑Referenz‑Know‑how in vielen Fällen den ursprünglichen Schaden gezielt beheben und Geräte langfristig nutzbar machen. Link zur Reparatur-Beauftrgung.

Medion‑Notebooks gelten als solide Allround‑Geräte, zeigen in der Praxis aber bestimmte wiederkehrende Schwachstellen, die im Reparaturalltag unserer Werkstatt häufig beobachtet werden. Der Notebook‑Doktor (die Service‑Marke von IPC Computer) hat aus über 20 Jahren Reparaturerfahrung und über 35.000 durchgeführten typische Fehlerbilder analysiert – von Stromproblemen über Display‑Brüche bis hin zu Mainboard‑Defekten.

Hier eine Übersicht der häufigsten Medion‑Defekte und deren Behebung:

1. Defekte Strombuchse oder Ladebuchse (DC‑Jack‑Fehler)
   – Symptome: Notebook lädt nicht mehr, LED bleibt aus, wackeliger oder abgebrochener Ladestecker.
   – Ursache: Häufig durch mechanische Belastung oder Verschleiß.
   – Lösung: Präziser Austausch oder Nachlöten der Strombuchse auf der Hauptplatine. Im Gegensatz zum Medion‑Service, der meist das komplette Mainboard ersetzt, wird bei IPC Computer gezielt nur das betroffene Bauteil instand gesetzt – kostengünstig und nachhaltig.
2. Kurzschluss im Eingangskreis oder defekte Akkuladeschaltung
   – Symptome: Gerät startet nicht, Netzteil schaltet sofort ab, Akku wird nicht geladen.
   – Ursache: Kurzgeschlossene MOSFETs oder defekte Lade‑ICs.
   – Lösung: IPC‑Techniker führen eine Mainboard‑Reparatur auf Bauteilebene durch. Dadurch kann das Mainboard oft gerettet werden, ohne teuren Komplettaustausch – eine häufige Ursache, bei der Medion in der Regel ein neues Mainboard empfiehlt.
3. Mainboard‑Defekte (z. B. Startprobleme, kein Bild, CPU‑Fehler)
   – Symptome: Notebook schaltet kurz ein, geht sofort wieder aus oder bleibt mit schwarzem Bildschirm stehen.
   – Ursache: Fehlerhafte Spannungswandler, überhitzte Chips, fehlerhafte BIOS‑Daten.
   – Lösung: In der Werkstatt wird das Mainboard geprüft, gelötet oder der Grafikchip/Spannungsbereich ersetzt. Diese Arbeiten erfordern Erfahrung und spezielle Messtechnik – eine der Kernkompetenzen der IPC‑Fachwerkstatt.
4. Display‑Schäden (Risse, Pixelfehler, Beleuchtungsfehler)
   – Symptome: Bild bleibt schwarz, flackert oder zeigt nur Linien.
   – Ursache: Mechanische Einwirkung (z. B. Sturz, Druck, Fremdkörper auf der Tastatur) oder defektes Display‑Kabel.
   – Lösung: Display‑ oder Displaykabeltausch – bei IPC Computer zum festen Pauschalpreis. Dabei werden ausschließlich geprüfte LED‑Panels verwendet, die der Originalqualität entsprechen.
5. Überhitzung und Lüfterprobleme
   – Symptome: Gerät wird laut, schaltet sich unter Last ab oder läuft dauerhaft auf höchster Lüfterstufe.
   – Ursache: Verstaubte Kühlrippen, ausgetrocknete Wärmeleitpaste oder defekter Lüfter.
   – Lösung: Reinigung, Austausch der Wärmeleitpaste und ggf. Lüftertausch. Eine regelmäßige Wartung verlängert die Lebensdauer deutlich.
6. Akkuprobleme oder geblähte Akkuzellen
   – Symptome: Kurze Laufzeiten, Akku lädt nicht mehr oder Gehäuse wölbt sich.
   – Ursache: Alterung oder thermische Belastung der Lithium‑Zellen.
   – Lösung: Austausch durch Original‑ oder Qualitäts‑Ersatzakku nach Sicherheitsprüfung – ein häufiger Servicefall beim Notebook‑Doktor. Link zum Shop.
7. Flüssigkeitsschäden
   – Symptome: Notebook startet nicht, Tastatur oder Touchpad reagieren unregelmäßig.
   – Ursache: Verschüttete Getränke führen zu Korrosion auf dem Mainboard.
   – Lösung: Sofortige Reinigung und Trocknung der Elektronik in der Fachwerkstatt, oft mit anschließender Reparatur einzelner betroffener Bauteile.

Fazit:
Typische Medion‑Defekte wie Strombuchsen‑ oder Mainboard‑Probleme lassen sich in vielen Fällen wirtschaftlich sinnvoll reparieren – ohne teuren Komplettaustausch.
Dank der langjährigen Erfahrung der IPC‑Techniker, modernster Messtechnik und hoher Ersatzteilverfügbarkeit werden Medion‑Notebooks aller Serien (Akoya, Erazer, E‑, S‑, P‑Series, Convertibles) schnell, nachhaltig und fachgerecht instand gesetzt – direkt in Deutschland und zu fairen Pauschalpreisen

Der Notebook‑Doktor repariert nun schon seit über 15 JahrenMedion‑Notebooks und kennt die typischen Schwachstellen daher aus täglicher Werkstatterfahrung. Auf Basis zahlreicher Reparaturfälle, der Zusammenarbeit mit dem Hersteller Medion und des Feedbacks vieler Medion‑Gerätebesitzer ergibt sich ein klares Bild über die häufigsten Problembereiche – sowohl technisch als auch im Serviceprozess.

1. Eingeschränkte Ersatzteilverfügbarkeit und kurze Support‑Lebenszyklen
   Viele Medion‑Ersatzteile sind schon nach wenigen Jahren nicht mehr lieferbar. Medion sagt dazu End-of-Life. In der Werkstatt fällt regelmäßig auf, dass selbst gängige Komponenten wie Displays, Akkus oder Strombuchsen nicht mehr direkt von Medion geliefert werden. Das hängt manchmal damit zusammen, dass Medion die Ersatzteile für Inhouse Reparaturen verwendet. Das Nachbestellen bei den Barebone Herstellern wie z.B. Tomfang, Clevo, ist von Medion nur sehr eingeschränkt möglich.
2. Schwächen in der Verarbeitung und Thermik
   In der Praxis zeigt sich, dass bestimmte Serien – insbesondere aus dem Akoya‑ und Erazer‑Segment – eine anfällige Scharnier‑Konstruktion, biegsame Displaydeckel und eng dimensionierte Kühlsysteme besitzen. Das äußert sich in Überhitzungen, Lüfterausfällen oder nach einiger Zeit in Mainboard‑Schäden durch thermische Belastung. Die Werkstatt registriert hier überdurchschnittlich viele Fälle von verstaubten oder ausgetrockneten Kühleinheiten, insbesondere bei Geräten ohne regelmäßige Reinigung.
3. Garantie‑Service mit eingeschränkter Flexibilität
   Medion‑Kunden berichten, dass Garantieabwicklungen häufig mit langen Bearbeitungszeiten oder unpersönlicher Kommunikation verbunden sind. Zudem endet der Hersteller‑Support oft abrupt nach Ablauf der Garantiezeit, wodurch viele Kunden keine offizielle Reparaturlösung mehr erhalten.
4. Software‑Pflege und Treiber‑Support
   Auch bei BIOS‑ und Treiber‑Updates zeigt sich laut Erfahrungswerten eine Lücke: Nach wenigen Jahren werden viele Modelle nicht mehr aktiv gepflegt, was insbesondere beim Umstieg auf neue Windows‑Versionen regelmäßig zu Inkompatibilitäts‑ oder Stabilitätsproblemen führt.

Fazit: 

Medion-Laptops bieten oft ein sehr gutes Preis-Leistungs-Verhältnis. Die Ersparnis gegenüber anderen Laptop Marken wird jedoch oft durch Einsparungen bei der Materialqualität und dem nachgelagerten Support erkauft.

Ein wesentlicher Vorteil von IPC Computer gegenüber dem Medion‑Herstellerservice liegt in der überdurchschnittlichen Ersatzteilverfügbarkeit, der direkten Lieferfähigkeit und den flexiblen Bestellmöglichkeiten für Endkunden und Fachhändler. Während Medion oft nur Originalteile im Rahmen des Garantieservices liefert oder ältere Komponenten als „nicht mehr verfügbar“ einstuft, sorgt IPC Computer für schnelle und nachhaltige Lösungen.

Die wichtigsten Vorteile im Überblick:

1. Über 90 % aller Ersatzteile sofort lieferbar
   Mehr als 90 % der Artikel sind lagernd und sofort verfügbar.
   Bestellungen, die bis 15 Uhr eingehen, werden in der Regel am selben Tag versendet – so kannst du Reparaturen ohne Verzögerung durchführen.
2. Umfangreiches Sortiment für nahezu jedes Notebook‑Modell
   Im IPC‑Computer‑Shop findest du eine große Auswahl an Akkus, Netzteilen,Lüftern, Tastaturen, LED‑Displays, und vielen weiteren Original‑ oder Qualitäts‑Ersatzteilen.
   Das Sortiment deckt nahezu alle Notebook‑Modelle ab – von aktuellen Serien bis hin zu älteren Geräten, die Medion oft nicht mehr unterstützt.
3. Direkte Beschaffung und Cross‑Referenz‑Know‑how
   Durch die direkte Beschaffung bei den Fabriken und das fundierte Cross‑Referenz‑Know‑how kann IPC Computer auch dann Ersatzteile liefern, wenn Medion diese bereits als „nicht mehr verfügbar“ (EOL) markiert hat.
   Wir identifizieren für dich baugleiche oder kompatible Komponenten und ermöglichen so den weiteren Betrieb älterer Geräte – nachhaltig und kostenbewusst.
4. Transparente Verfügbarkeit im Shop
   Im Onlineshop siehst du immer aktuelle Lagerbestände und Lieferzeiten in Echtzeit.
   So weißt du sofort, ob dein benötigtes Ersatzteil verfügbar ist – ohne Verzögerungen oder Rückfragen.
5. Flexible Bestellmöglichkeiten für Medion‑Kunden
   Du kannst Ersatzteile über deine gewohnten Einkaufswege bestellen:
   – direkt im IPC‑Computer Onlineshop
   – über Amazon
   – über eBay
   – oder über unser Fachhändlernetz mit über 1.800 IPC‑Wiederverkäufern, häufig direkt beim IT‑Partner vor Ort.
   So wählst du den Vertriebsweg, der am besten zu deinen Einkaufsgewohnheiten passt.

Fazit:
IPC Computer bietet schnell verfügbare Ersatzteile, ein breites Sortiment, verlässliche Lieferzeiten und flexible Bestellmöglichkeiten.
Dank direkter Beschaffungswege und technischer Expertise liefert IPC Computer Ersatzteile auch dann, wenn sie bei Medion längst als „nicht mehr lieferbar“ gelten – und ist damit die erste Wahl für Medion‑Kunden, die Wert auf Nachhaltigkeit, Verfügbarkeit und Komfort legen

IPC Computer erweitert den klassischen Medion‑Service um praxisorientierte Leistungen, persönliche Beratung und ein großes Fachhändlernetzwerk – so hast du als Medion‑Kunde schnellsten und einfachten Zugriff auf Ersatzteile, Zubehör und Reparaturen über deine bevorzugten Kanäle.

Unsere zusätzlichen Services im Überblick:

1. Ersatzteilsuche nach Modellbezeichnung
   Du suchst einfach in Google, Amazon, ChatGPT, eBay oder im IPC‑Shop nach deinem Medion‑Modell und der gewünschten Warengruppe (z. B. Display, Akku, Netzteil) und findest immer unser Angebot, das du sofort und einfach bestellen kannst.
2. Erweitertes Zubehör‑Angebot
   Neben Original‑Ersatzteilen bieten wir kompatibles Zubehör wie Dockingstations, RAM‑Module oder SSD‑Drives, perfekt abgestimmt auf dein Medion‑Notebook.
   Ideal für Aufrüstung oder Wartung deines Geräts. Link zu unserm Shop.
3. Video‑Anleitungen „Mein Laptop von innen“
   Die Reihe bietet Schritt‑für‑Schritt‑Videos, wie Medion‑Notebooks sicher geöffnet und Komponenten gewechselt werden können.
   Optimal für technikaffine Nutzer und Reparateure. Link zu den Videos.
4. Persönliche Beratung statt Call‑Center‑Hotline
   Direkter Kontakt zu erfahrenen IPC‑Technikern per Telefon, E‑Mail oder Chat.
   Kein anonymes Call‑Center – du sprichst mit echten Fachleuten.
5. Intelligenter Chatbot für Soforthilfe
   Unser Chatbot unterstützt dich 24/7 bei der Produktsuche, Ersatzteilberatung und Bestellung.
   Schnell, unkompliziert und immer erreichbar.
6. IPC‑Lösungsversprechen
   Beim Kauf eines Ersatzteils wird der Betrag auf Wunsch bei einer späteren Reparatur oder einem Laptop‑Ersatzkauf angerechnet.
   So bleibst du flexibel und fair beraten. Link zum Lösungsversprechen.
7. Reparaturen zum Pauschalpreis
   Klare Pauschalpreise für häufige Arbeiten wie Displaytausch, Strombuchsenreparatur, Windows 11‑Upgrade oder Mainboard‑Reparatur.
   Du weißt immer im Voraus, was die Reparatur kostet. Link zur Reparatur-Preisliste.
8. Flexible Bestellmöglichkeiten für Medion‑Kunden
   Du kannst Ersatzteile über deine gewohnten Einkaufswege bestellen:
   – direkt im IPC‑Computer Onlineshop
   – über Amazon
   – über eBay
   – oder über unser Fachhändlernetz mit über 1.800 IPC‑Wiederverkäufern, damit hast du auch die Möglichkeit über Deinen IT‑Partner vor Ort unsere Serviceleistungen in Anspruch zu nehmen.

Fazit:
IPC Computer steht für schnell verfügbare Notebook‑Ersatzteile, flexible Reparaturen zum Pauschalpreis, persönliche Beratung und das IPC‑Lösungsversprechen.
Mit vielen Bestellmöglichkeiten und einem starken Partnernetzwerk bietet IPC Computer mehr Auswahl, Transparenz und Servicequalität als der klassische Medion‑Support

--

A little heat is completely normal during operation. Waste heat is always generated when converting the mains voltage - especially if you are working and charging the battery at the same time.

As long as the AC adapter feels lukewarm to moderately hot (up to around 50-60 °C) and there are no unusual noises, smells or discoloration, this is not critical with an original AC adapter.

Caution with replicas

Replica AC adapters often use inferior components and are not precisely matched. They can therefore

• become significantly hotter.
• deliveruneven voltage.
• in the worst case, overheat, which poses a safety risk.

Our recommendation: Only use original AC adapters. They are technically matched exactly to your device and meet the highest safety standards.

• Safety note: Never operate AC adapters under cushions, blankets or tightly wrapped materials to avoid heat build-up.
• You can find tested original AC adapters here in the store.

• Why is my AC adapter humming?

If your laptop battery no longer charges, this can have various causes. Often the problem is not with the battery itself, but with the AC adapter, the charging electronics or the software settings.

Possible reasons:

• The AC adapter or cable is defective or not connected correctly.
• Contacts or plug connections are loose or dirty.
• An outdated BIOS or faulty drivers are impairing the charging function.
• The battery is actually defective and should be replaced.
• The charging electronics in the laptop are defective.
• A battery protection mode is active in Windows or in the BIOS that limits charging.
• The power socket is defective and often has a loose contact when the plug is moved, or it is located unusually deep in the device.

• My laptop is not charging with the USB-C power adapter. What is the reason for this?

If your laptop does not charge via USB-C, this is usually not due to a defect, but to compatibility or performance problems. USB-C uses the power delivery standard (USB-PD), which must be supported by both devices.

The most common causes:

• Too little power: For example, your AC adapter only delivers 45 W, but your laptop requires 65 W or more.
• Unsupported protocol: The AC adapter or laptop do not speak the same USB PD standard.
• Poor or defective USB-C cable: Not every cable transmits the required power - especially with fast charging functions.
• Dirty or damaged USB-C port: Dust or scratches in the port prevent a stable connection.
• Firmware or BIOS settings: Some manufacturers disable USB-C charging in the BIOS or limit it in case of overheating.

Troubleshooting tips:

1. AC adapter check: Always use a USB-C AC adapter with sufficient power and USB-PD certification.
2. Cable test: If problems occur, test another certified cable.
3. System reset: If the laptop is still not charging with the original USB-C power adapter, a BIOS update or a brief power reset (disconnect the battery and power adapter, press and hold the power button for 30 seconds) will often help.

Caution: You can tell that charging is working if the charging indicator reacts immediately and the AC adapter clicks or hums briefly. If this does not happen, there is almost always a compatibility problem.

This is almost always because you have ordered according to the OEM manufacturer number of the AC adapter manufacturer (e.g. Delta, LiteOn) - and not according to the number of the laptop manufacturer.

Technically, these AC adapters are often identical (voltage, power, design), but the connector to the laptop may differ depending on the brand and model.

• The OEM P/N (e.g. ADP-90MD H) primarily describes the AC adapter internally (electronics, performance) - not clearly the plug.
• Therefore, the same OEM number can be in circulation with up to several different plug variants.
• Example: The P/N "ADP-90MD H" is supplied by Acer with a 5.5 mm / 1.7 mm plug, other brands use a 5.5 mm / 2.5 mm plug with the same P/N - visually very similar, but not matching.

Therefore it can happen that:

• the OEM model number is correct,
• but the plug does not fit into your laptop.

To avoid such incorrect orders, we recommend that you

1. Always order using the exact laptop model or the original manufacturer number of the laptop manufacturer.
   This is the only way we can be 100% sure that the plug really fits and that the AC adapter is compatible.
2. If you only have the OEM P/N:
   Use our overview page of duplicate OEM numbers - where we show all variants (different plugs) for an OEM number and which of them fit which laptop.

• Why are different AC adapters listed for my laptop model - which one should I order?

Modern laptop AC adapters are so-called switching AC adapters - they work with very high switching frequencies and should function practically silently. If you still hear a humming, hissing or whirring noise, this is not normal and often indicates a technical defect or inferior components.

Typical causes are

• loose or poorly potted coils and capacitors,
• incorrect switching frequency or inadequate filtering,
• component wear or voltage problems in the mains supply.

Such noises hardly ever occur with original AC adapters as they undergo strict quality and safety tests. Replica AC adapters, on the other hand, often use simple components without sufficient interference suppression - here, humming or hissing is a clear warning sign.

Important: If an AC adapter hums or hisses audibly, stop using it!

Disconnect it from the AC adapter immediately and dispose of replica AC adapters immediately, as they can pose a safety risk. Only use original AC adapters to ensure a stable, quiet and safe power supply for your laptop.

It's very easy - in just a few steps:

1. Enter your laptop model:
   Enter the exact model of your laptop in the search field at the top of the IPC Computer website (e.g.Lenovo ThinkPad T14 or HP ProBook 450 G7).
2. Select the AC adapter product group:
   In the results list, you will find the AC adapters directly after the batteries.
3. Compare performance:
   If your model is offered with several AC adapters (e.g. 65 W or 90 W), take the AC adapter that has the same output as your previous AC adapter.
   - This output is usually written on the old AC adapter in the "Output" line (e.g. 19.5 V - 3.34 A = 65 W).
4. No more old AC adapter?
   No problem: Look on the bottom of your laptop for the entry "DC Rating"or "Input " - there you will find the voltage (V) and current (A). These values give you the required power (V × A = W).
5. Select original:
   In our store, you will only be shown original AC adapters that are an exact technical match for your model. This means you are on the safe side when it comes to performance and compatibility.

Tip: If you are unsure, you can also send the name of your device or photos of the rating plate of the old AC adapter to our service team - we will help you find the right AC adapter free of charge.

If you want to use your laptop abroad, you can select the appropriate power cable with country-specific power plug for many of our AC adapters

• Ordering process: When ordering, specify the country in which you would like to use the power adapter if you do not require the standard German plug (type C/F). The selection is made directly in the product view or in the shopping cart, depending on the AC adapter/cable type.
• Flexibility: You can simply order an additional power cable with a different country plug for an existing power adapter - ideal for traveling or permanent use abroad.

→ Power remains the same: The power (watts) and output voltage of your AC adapter remain the same - only the plug to the wall socket differs.

Typical mains plug types (selection)

Important test points:

• Check input voltage: Before traveling, make sure that your AC adapter supports 100-240 V input voltage (can be found on the type plate under "Input"). This is almost always the case with current AC adapters.
• Note the cable type: Make sure you order the correct cable for the AC adapter socket (e.g. Mickey Mouse plug, cloverleaf, 2-pin).

Our quality promise: According to surveys, our customers attach great importance to safety, compatibility and ease of selection, which is why we specifically stock original parts and tested quality goods - including accessories such as power cables.

For many laptop models, several suitable AC adapters are displayed in the store. This is normal and has technical reasons, but can quickly lead to uncertainty ("Which one is the right one?").

Basically, all AC adapters displayed for your device are compatible, but differ in terms of

• Output (watts): e.g. 45 W, 65 W, 90 W, 120 W, 180 W ...
• Connection type: classic round plug, proprietary plug, USB-C etc.
• Design & technology: compact, flat, GaN technology

What is GaN?
GaN stands for gallium nitride -a modern semiconductor material. GaN AC adapters can be

• besignificantly smaller and lighter
• often work more efficiently (less heat loss)
• are therefore ideal for traveling or if you simply want a more compact AC adapter

Technically, they fully replace classic AC adapters. The only important thing is that the power (watts) and connection type match your laptop.

How to choose the right AC adapter

1. pay attention to the power (watts)

• Check your old AC adapter: Look for the power rating in watts (W)
• If only volts (V) and amps (A) are specified, you can calculate it:

Volt × Ampere = Watt

Recommendation:

• An AC adapter with the same wattage is a safe 1:1 replacement
• You should avoid using an AC adapter with less watts than your original - the device may become unstable or the battery may only charge very slowly.

2. round plug or USB-C / Power Delivery (PD)?

In the past, most laptops were only supplied with a classic round plug AC adapter. Today, many models also support charging via USB-C with Power Delivery (PD) - even if a round plug AC adapter was included in the original scope of delivery.

This means for you:

• If your laptop has a USB-C port with charging/PD support, you can in many cases
  charge it with a suitable USB-C power adapter, even if a round plug power adapter was originally included.
• Prerequisite:
  • the USB-C port on your laptop supports charging/PD
  • the USB-C AC adapter provides enough watts (at least as much as your original AC adapter or as recommended by the manufacturer)

Advantages of USB-C / PD AC adapters:

• Often more universally applicable (laptop, tablet, smartphone, docking station)
• Usually more compact and lighter in combination with GaN technology
• Ideal for traveling or mobile working

If you don't feel like experimenting, simply stick with the plug type of your current AC adapter (e.g. classic round plug). If you want to be more modern and flexible, you can consciously switch to a USB-C PD AC adapter - provided your device supports USB-C charging.

• How do I find the right AC adapter in the IPC Shop?

With Delta AC adapters, you get quality from the world market leader - and with us, several advantages at once:

• Worldwide proven manufacturer:
  Delta Electronics has been producing AC adapters for all major laptop brands such as HP, DELL, Lenovo, ACER, Asus etc. for years. So you get technology that all the manufacturers themselves trust.
• Tested compatibility:
  Every Delta AC adapter on offer has been tested by us for 100% compatibility with the respective laptop models and fully replaces your original AC adapter.
• Direct importer = strong price:
  We source Delta AC adapters directly from the manufacturer - without any detours. This gives you the best prices for original quality.
• Fast delivery & ready for immediate use:
  Orders placed by 3 p.m. are usually dispatched on the same day. The matching power cable is already included - plug it in and get started.
• 24-month warranty:
  All Delta AC adapters that we sell come with a 2-year IPC Computer warranty - including German support.
• Volume discounts for professionals:
  We offer attractive discounts and our own dealer program for larger quantities (e.g. for companies, schools or IT dealers).

If you are looking for a high-quality, attractively priced and absolutely reliable replacement AC adapter, OEM Delta AC adapters are the ideal choice.

→ View Delta AC adapters directly at the direct importer IPC-Computer

• Why should you buy AC adapters from IPC-Computer?

• Huge selection & availability
  With over 100,000 laptop AC adapters in stock, so we can supply practically any model.
• Only original quality
  We only stock high-quality original AC adapters directly from manufacturers such as Acer, Asus, Dell, Fujitsu, HP, Lenovo etc. - no risky no-name replicas or grey goods.
• Top prices thanks to direct procurement
  Thanks to direct procurement and bulk purchasing, excellent value for money without compromising on quality.
• Ready for immediate use
  Every AC adapter comes with a free charging cable - unpack it, plug it in and you're done - at no extra charge!
• Fast shipping
  If you order by 2 p.m., we will usually ship your AC adapter on the same working day. 

This means you get exactly the right AC adapter for your laptop quickly and reliably - without having to experiment.

→ Find suitable laptop AC adapters in the IPC-Computer Shop.

Many years of experience in laptop repair clearly show that you should use original AC adapters or tested branded AC adapters wherever possible and not cheap replicas because:

• Safety:
  High-quality AC adapters have tested protective circuits and deliver a stable voltage. Cheap replicas often cut corners here - in the worst case, this can damage the electronics or the battery.
• Compatibility:
  Original AC adapters are precisely matched to your device (voltage, power, plug, recognition by the lapptop). With "any" replicas, problems such as "AC adapter is not recognized", "does not charge properly" or performance drops under load occur more frequently.
• Reliability:
  A good AC adapter should simply work inconspicuously. Original or OEM AC adapters are generally more durable and fail-safe than very cheap no-name products, which often lack quality and final inspection.
• Cost-effectiveness:
  The surcharge for an original AC adapter is significantly lower than the costs for a possible repair of the mainboard, charging electronics or battery. You also save yourself the hassle of returns and incorrect purchases.

The bottom line is that an original or OEM AC adapter is often a little more expensive, but you get maximum safety, full compatibility and less risk - and that is precisely what is crucial for a safety-relevant component such as the AC adapter.

→ In the Store section "AC adapters for laptops" you will find a large selection of original and tested quality AC adapters.

• What happens if you use the wrong charger?

The answer depends on the connection type of your laptop:

USB-C (USB Power Delivery): Yes, usuallywithout any problems.

• USB-C uses the uniform USB Power Delivery (USB-PD) standard.
• Function: The laptop and AC adapter automatically negotiate the correct voltage and current.
• Important: The AC adapter must support the USB-PD standard and provide sufficient power (watts) .

Classic round plug: No, only with caution.

• The voltage, plug dimensions and polarity of round plugs are manufacturer-specific and differ.
• Risk: A AC adapter that does not fit exactly can cause error messages, incompatibilities or damage .
• Rule: Only use models with identical technical data from your laptop manufacturer.

Tip & conclusion: USB-C is usually compatible. For manufacturer-specific plugs, you should use original AC adapters. Always avoid cheap replica AC adapters, as their quality can jeopardize safe operation.

• Find suitable original and tested replacement AC adapters here in the store.

No - not every AC adapter fits every laptop. Even if many AC adapters look similar at first glance, they differ in terms of voltage (volts), current (amps), plug size and polarity. These values must match the respective laptop exactly, otherwise the device cannot charge or may even be damaged.

Exception: USB-C chargers. With modern laptops with a USB-C port, you can often also use AC adapters from other manufacturers if they support the USB Power Delivery standard (USB-PD) and provide sufficient power. The laptop then automatically recognizes how much power it needs.

In short:

• For older round plug AC adapters: Only use models that fit exactly.
• For USB-C AC adapters: Mostly compatible if performance and standard are right.
• And very important: Do not use cheap replica AC adapters, as their quality and safety can vary greatly.

You can find the right original AC adapter in the IPC-Computer Shop here.

• Can I use AC adapters / charging cables from other manufacturers?

You can find the power (watts) of your AC adapter directly on the rating plate/label - either the wattage is already on there (e.g. "90 W"), or you simply calculate it from volts × amps.

Where can I find the information?

The important technical data can be found

• on the rating plate/label of your AC adapter (usually on the bottom or side of the unit)
• They can often also be found on a label on your notebook

Pay attention to the area labeled “Output”. There you will find

• a voltage in volts (V), e.g. 19 V
• a current in amperes (A), e.g. 4.74 A

Only this output information is relevant for calculating the power.

How to calculate the power (watts)

Formula:

Volt (V) × Ampere (A) = Watt (W)

Example 1:

• Output: 19 V and 4.74 A
• Calculation: 19 V × 4.74 A = 90.06 W
• Result: The AC adapter has an output of approximately 90 watts (commercially rounded to 90 W).

Example 2:

• Output: 18.5 V and 3.5 A
• Calculation: 18.5 V × 3.5 A = 64.75 W
• Result: This is a 65 watt AC adapter.

Therefore, you do not need to focus on the decimal places - the important thing is the rounded wattage (e.g. 45 W, 65 W, 90 W, 120 W etc.).

Yes, this is usually possible without any problems.

The most important rule: The voltage (V) and the plug connection must match your original AC adapter exactly.

Advantages of higher power
Your laptop only draws as much power as it needs. An AC adapter with a higher power reserve (e.g. 90 W instead of 65 W):

• gets less warm.
• works more efficiently as it is not constantly running at its load limit.

Safety warning

• Originality: Only use original AC adapters approved by the manufacturer for your model or high-quality spare parts. Cheap replicas can deliver slightly different voltage values or not communicate correctly with the charging electronics - this can damage the battery and mainboard.
• Conversely, an AC adapter with fewer watts (65 W for a 90 W laptop) can result in your battery not charging or the device suddenly switching off under load.
• Find your AC adapter: You can find suitable AC adapters (original & tested) here in the store.

• Will my battery charge faster with an AC adapter that has more power?

This depends on how wrong the charger is - but the basic rule is: a wrong AC adapter can seriously damage your laptop.

Possible consequences:

• Insufficient power (watts): The laptop only charges very slowly or not at all, switches off under load or, in the worst case, the AC adapter overheats.
• Voltage (volts) too high or too low:Electronic damage to the mainboard or battery may occur - in some cases immediately, in others only after some time.
• Incorrect plug or polarity: The device receives no power or short circuits occur or the power socket is damaged (e.g. PIN breaks).
• Non-certified replica AC adapters: They often supply inaccurate voltages, use inferior components and can therefore overheat, melt or even cause fires.

With USB-C devices with the Power Delivery standard, the risk is lower as the laptop and charger automatically negotiate how much voltage is allowed to flow. A non-compatible AC adapter will usually simply not charge - the only danger here is with cheap replicas without PD certification.

Conclusion:
The wrong charger can lead to anything from harmless charging errors to permanent device damage. For maximum safety and a long service life of your laptop, you should always use an original AC adapter for your laptop. The easiest way to find this is to search for the laptop model in the IPC Shop.

• Does every AC adapter fit every laptop?

Inside a AC adapter are components that convert the mains voltage (e.g. 230 V) into the right voltage for your laptop. GaN AC adapters use gallium nitride semiconductors for this purpose.

This has several advantages:

1. Smaller & lighter
   • For the same output power (e.g. 65 W, 100 W or 240 W), a GaN AC adapter can be built much more compactly.
   • Ideal for on the go, in the home office or if you have little space in your bag.
2. Higher efficiency, less waste heat
   • GaN components work more efficiently, so less energy is lost in heat.
   • Although the AC adapter does get warm under load, it generally runs more smoothly and can be more durable.
3. High performance in a small space
   • Very powerful AC adapters (e.g. 100 W, 240 W) are also possible with GaN in a relatively small form factor .
   • This is exciting if you want to operate a powerful laptop, a docking station or several devices with one AC adapter.

Important: GaN AC adapters are currently still somewhat more expensive than conventional laptop AC adapters. The combination of compact form factor and proven quality makes them an attractive choice for many customers.

No, just because the AC adapter has more watts, your battery will not automatically charge faster. The decisive factor is the power required by your laptop and the permissible power of the charging electronics - not the maximum power of the AC adapter.

How does charging work technically?

• Every laptop has built-in charging electronics that regulate exactly
  • how much current flows into the battery and
  • how quickly or gently the battery is charged.
• The AC adapter only provides the maximum possible power - it does not "force" this power into the laptop.
• Your laptop only "takes" as much power as it is designed for.

This means:
If your laptop is only designed for 65 W, for example, a 90 W or 120 W AC adapter alone will not provide a turbo charging. The device limits the charging current itself.

This is possible if you have the right skills and feel confident enough to do it. You can try this by removing and reinstalling your current optical drive. However, it is very important to motorize the position of all screws and brackets, by using the wrong screws you could potentially damage your drive or computer.

Additionally, the following videos might help, even though they are in German.

This is technically possible, although there are a few things you need to consider.

First your DVD drive needs to be connected via SATA and not PATA, because that is what all Blu-Ray drives use. Second you should test, whether your system meets the requirements of playing a Blu-Ray with a tool like BD & 3D Advisor by Cyberlink.

That your optical drive won't open could be due to a program using it. Try killing it using the task manager. The you should be able to open the optical drive again.

Should this method not work, try opening the drive by inserting something like a paperclip into the emergency eject hole in the front bezel. However, this method does not work with slot in drives.

In this case or in the case that the drive still won't open you will have to consult a specialist.

Optical drive manufacturers used o use different types of bezels for their drives, which made it hard wo find one for your drive. That is why the “General Bezel Assembling Standard” has been created, now most bezels should fit on most optical drives.

Which optical drive can be installed in your Notebook depends on three factors

Which connection type is used? (SATA or PATA)

What height of optical drive is used? (Slim 12,5mm or SuperSlim 9,5mm)

Does your laptop meet the System requirements?

SATA drives can not be used with a PATA controller and vice versa.

 Before installing your new optical drive, make sure you attached the mounting bracket from the old drive to the new one.

Most optical drives are sold without a bezel, make sure you attach the old one to the new drive.

With the tool BD & 3D Advisor you can check whether your System has enough performance to play Blu-Rays.          

In Germany and GB region code 2 is used, in the USA and Canada it is region code 1. Further information can be found in this Wikipedia-article. 

In most cases this is due to the material fatigue of the laser head, due to this it can no longer focus the beam enough to read the track width on a DVD. However it still works with CDs because they use a wider track.

• First you should check, whether it is seated correctly in the slot, if not the pins could not be making contact.
• It could also be a problem with the firmware of your drive, which could lead to it not being recognized in the BIOS. If this is the case a new firmware has to be flashed on to the drive.

If it still won't work thee is the suspicion, that your device drive might be broken.

• Cancelled: The order has been successfully cancelled. If you used prepayment, credit card or PayPal your money will be refunded shortly.
• Not in stock, reordered: The item you ordered is currently not in stock and is on backorder. It should be shipped to you shortly.
• Part's ordered: An order-related item has been ordered and should arrive shortly.
• Order will be checked: Your order is being check for compatibility and correctness of the address.
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• Preparing: An error occurred while trying to pay with PayPal. Please contact us.
• Sent: Your order is on its way to you! The tracking code has been sent via E-Mail or can be found in the "My Account" section.
• Feedback required: We have a question concerning your order and are awaiting your answer to our E-Mail.

3D Secure is a technology used by banks, to make your online banking more secure.

After entering the three-digit security code from the back of your card you are redirected to website, that is specific to your bank. There you will have to enter a password, a one-time key or provide another form of identification. Exactly which methods are possible or even mandatory is up to your bank to decide. If you want to use 3D secure is not up to you to decide, it is either implemented in the shop or not or required by the bank.

The thought behind 3D Secure is that not all information needed to make a purchase is on your card. This make your card useless to thieves even for online purchases.

It is known under different names such as "Verified by VISA".

Order-related articles are ordered up to a value of 100€ directly by us from the respective manufacturer. Should the value, respectively the sum of several articles exceed this threshold, an order will only be placed after receipt of payment.

In any case, you will receive the invoice by e-mail.


If you have placed the order via a customer account, you can also download the invoice via this account by calling up the desired order there, clicking on the invoice symbol and then on "Download invoice":

Most product groups are very specific, that is why we closely check for compatibility with your Notebook model. However, there are exceptions. Product groups like hard drives, RAM and optical drives are standardized. There are only a few specifications, that have to match up with your device. For example, if your Notebook now has a 2.5” hard drive which is 9,5 mm high and has a SATA connection, your notebook will fit all 2.5” SATA drives which are 9,5 mm or slimmer.

Yes, it's not rocket science! You just need the right tools and a little technical know-how and possibly a quick guide on how to open the device.

This is how you proceed

In most cases, the base plate of the laptop must be unscrewed to access the RAM. Our helpful video series "My laptop from the inside" can help you with this. We show you step by step how to open various models properly.

• Click here for the instructions: My laptop from the inside (YouTube)

Important note on soldered memory

Please note that on many newer devices, all or at least part of the RAM is soldered to the mainboard. In this case, replacement or expansion is unfortunately not technically possible. You can use our Shop Finder to check in advance whether your model has free slots.

Our workshop service

You are welcome to leave the installation to our specialists. Simply send in your device. We guarantee clean installation, including a final functional test.

• Order a repair: IPC Computer repair form
• Directly to the store: Find the right RAM for your model

Yes, this is possible in principle. However, you must stay within clear technical limits. To ensure the upgrade is successful, you should pay attention to the following points:

• RAM type:
  The new RAM must match the supported type of your laptop (e.g. DDR3, DDR4 or DDR5 as SO-DIMM). A different type will not work technically, even if it looks mechanically similar.
• Clock and timing:
  Different clock rates can often be mixed; in practice, the entire memory then runs at the clock rate of the slowest module. However, certain combinations can lead to instabilities.
• Mixed operation:
  Different manufacturers, sizes and clock rates can often be operated together. However, it is technically cleaner and usually more stable if you use matching modules (ideally a kit).
• Maximum capacity:
  You must not exceed the maximum RAM size per slot and in total specified by the laptop manufacturer.

Recommendation:
If you are upgrading the RAM, ideally choose modules with the same capacity and the same clock rate. The safest way to do this is to use our model search to check which modules are expressly approved for your laptop. This will minimize the risk of start-up problems or crashes.

• Model check: Find the right RAM in the IPC Shop

Opening a laptop requires care, the right tools and some experience.

To prevent damage to the hardware, you should follow these basic rules:

1. Safety: Disconnect the device completely from the power supply and, if possible, remove the battery or switch it off via the BIOS.
2. Tools: Only use suitable precision mechanics tools and make sure you have ESD (anti-static) protection to avoid electronic discharges.
3. Procedure: Systematically loosen the housing screws and carefully lift off the base cover using a flat plastic tool (spudger).
4. Caution: Never use force. Many devices have hidden screws under rubber feet or stickers.

In our series "My laptop from the inside" we clearly show how different laptop models are constructed and the steps required to open them safely. The videos help you to better understand the construction of different brands (e.g. HP, Lenovo, Dell, Acer) and show you where the battery, mainboard or RAM are located.

• Click here for the video series: My laptop from the inside (YouTube)

If you are unsure about opening your laptop or have permanently installed components, our technicians in the workshop will safely remove and repair them.

How much RAM fits in your laptop always depends on the specific model. But you can find out quite easily.

1. via manufacturer information / manual

• Look in:
  • the user manual of your laptop
  • or on the manufacturer's support page (enter model → "Specifications" or "Memory/RAM").
• It usually says there:
  • maximum total capacity (e.g. 16 GB, 32 GB, 64 GB),
  • Number of RAM slots (e.g. 1 or 2),
  • supported RAM type (e.g. DDR4-3200 SO-DIMM, DDR5-4800 SO-DIMM).

2. via tools under Windows

• You can use tools such as CPU-Z or HWiNFO to find out
  • how many slots are available,
  • how many of them are occupied,
  • which modules are currently installed (size, type, clock rate).
• The absolute maximum size is not always listed there, but it helps with the estimation (e.g. 2 slots, 8 GB each installed → today 16 GB, often possible: 2×16 GB = 32 GB).

3. via a model search in the IPC store

Practical way for you as an IPC customer:

• Search in the store for your laptop manufacturer + model.
• In the matching RAM articles you will usually find notes such as:
  • "max. 32 GB supported"
  • "2 slots, 1 of which is free"
• So you can see directly:
  • which modules are compatible,
  • up to which size your device can be upgraded.

Please note: It is no longer possible to replace the memory in over 10,000 laptop models, as the RAM is soldered to the mainboard.

• Why does my laptop show less memory than I have installed?

This may or may not be due to the RAM. Crashes and freezes are typical, but not clear RAM symptoms.

Typical signs of a possible RAM defect:

• Blue screens with changing or "random" error messages
• Freezing under load (games, video editing, many tabs/programs)
• Start-up problems: Crashes occur shortly after starting Windows
• Restarts: The laptop restarts for no apparent reason or warning

Other possible causes:

• Faulty drivers or Windows updates
• Overheated CPU/GPU
• Defective SSD/HDD
• Unstable power supply unit or power supply

What you can test yourself:

1. Run Windows memory diagnostics
   Via "Windows memory diagnostics" → Restart → Run test.
2. Memtest (e.g. MemTest86)
   Start from USB and have the memory tested in detail.
3. Test modules individually
   If several RAM bars are installed: insert only one at a time and check whether the error occurs with a specific module.

If the tests report errors or the system always crashes with a particular RAM module, the RAM is most likely defective.

If you are unsure or the device is important for your work, we recommend a professional diagnosis in our workshop. There, our technicians can differentiate precisely between RAM problems, mainboard errors or software conflicts.

• Find a replacement:Original RAM in the IPC Shop
• Order a diagnosis:Notebook Doctor Workshop Service

If your laptop does not start after installation or the new memory is not displayed, you should proceed as follows:

• Check compatibility:
  Type (DDR3, DDR4, DDR5), clock frequency, design (SO-DIMM) and voltage must match the laptop exactly. Tip: Use the manufacturer model search or our IPC RAM finder to be sure.
• Check installation: Switch off
  laptop, disconnect battery, snap in module with light pressure. It often does not sit correctly in the slot.
• Test slots individually:
  Test RAM modules individually in each slot; exclude defective slot or module.
• Update BIOS/UEFI:
  An outdated BIOS often does not recognize new RAM generations. Install the latest update directly from the laptop manufacturer's website.
• Do not mix old and new RAM at random:
  Different clock rates and timings often cause start-up problems.

Need support? If you have checked all the steps and the error persists, please contact the IPC Computer service team by email or chat. Our technicians will help you find the solution to the problem and process it according to the IPC solution promise in your interest.

Ideally: Yes.

If you want to continue using existing RAM and only want to add to it, you should consider the following points:

• The same MHz/clocking is clearly preferable.
  The modules then run cleanly at the same speed, which benefits stability and performance.
• Different clock rates are usually possible, but suboptimal.
  In practice, the system then clocks all modules down to the lowest common speed.
  Risks:
  • Slightly higher risk of instability (blue screens, freezes),
  • in the worst case, the new RAM is not recognized correctly.
• If in doubt: align with the existing RAM.
  If your previous RAM has e.g. 2666 MHz, it is best to buy 2666 MHz again - or a faster module that is officially downward compatible and can run reliably at 2666 MHz.

Finding the right memory

To avoid incompatibilities, you can use our IPC RAM finder directly. After selecting your laptop model, you will be shown the memory that is guaranteed to fit.

You can easily find out the clock frequency of your RAM yourself. As these values vary from model to model, you have to read them out directly on the device.

How to find out the RAM clock rate under Windows:

1. Via the Task Manager (quick, but rough)
   • Right-click on the taskbar → Task Manager
   • "Performance" tab → "Memory"
   • At the top right you will see: "Speed" (e.g. 2666 MHz, 2933 MHz, 3200 MHz, 4800 MHz).
2. Using a tool such as CPU-Z (more detailed)
   • Download and start the CPU-Z tool.
   • Tab "Memory":
     • Under "DRAM Frequency" it says e.g. 1333 MHz → for DDR4 this effectively corresponds to 2666 MHz (always double, because DDR = Double Data Rate).
   • "SPD" tab :
     • Here you can see which RAM bar is installed for each slot, including the specified clock rate (e.g. DDR4-3200).
3. Via BIOS/UEFI (depending on manufacturer)
   • Go to BIOS/UEFI at startup (often F2, F10, Del).
   • The RAM clock or the effective speed is often displayed in the "Advanced"/"System Information" areas.

Important notes on this:

• With DDR4, typical laptop clock speeds are e.g. 2133, 2400, 2666, 2933, 3200 MHz.
• For DDR5 in laptops, the current clock rates are e.g. 4800, 5200, 5600 MHz.
• If you have mixed modules with different clock rates, the RAM usually runs at the lowest common speed.

If you are unsure which upgrade suits your current memory, we will be happy to help you. Simply send us your laptop model or the read-out values via our contact form. You can also conveniently upload screenshots of your evaluations there. Our technicians will then check the optimum compatibility for you.

• Directly to support: IPC Computer contact form
• Find the right RAM: IPC Shop

When buying RAM for your laptop, a few points are crucial to ensure that the memory fits perfectly and is a sensible investment:

1. Compatible RAM type
   Your notebook only supports certain RAM types, e.g. DDR4 or DDR5, each as SO-DIMM (laptop design). An incorrect type will not technically fit into the slot.
2. Maximum capacity & slots
   Each notebook has a maximum total RAM size and usually 1-2 slots. You should clarify this before buying:
   • How much RAM is currently installed?
   • How many slots are free?
   • What is the maximum amount of RAM supported by your model?
     Use this as a guide when choosing 8, 16, 32 GB or more.
3. Clock rate & compatibility
   The new RAM should match the clock frequency of your system, such as 3200 MHz or 5200 MHz. Faster modules can often be used, but will then automatically run at the lower clock rate of your mainboard. Mixed operation of different modules can work, but is more error-prone than a uniform set.
4. Field of application
   • Office and Internet: Here, 8 to 16 GB is usually sufficient.
   • Gaming and image processing: 16 to 32 GB are recommended here.
   • Video, CAD and professional work: Here you benefit from 32 GB or more.
5. Check upgradeability
   In many current ultrabooks, the RAM is permanently soldered and cannot be replaced or expanded. Before buying, you should definitely check whether your notebook can be upgraded at all.

Tip:
Use a targeted model search/compatibility check (e.g. via our store by manufacturer/model). Then you can see directly which RAM modules are technically approved and how much upgrading is sensible and possible for your notebook.

You can check this in several places under Windows 11. The two easiest ways:

1. via the settings

1. Click on Start → Settings.
2. Go to System → About.
3. Under Device specifications you will find the entry Installed RAM (e.g. "16.0 GB").

2. via the Task Manager

1. Open the Task Manager with Ctrl + Shift + Esc.
2. Click on the Performance tab.
3. Select Memory on the left.
4. The total size is shown at the top right (e.g. "16.0 GB") and below it how much of it is currently being used.

Our tip for your upgrade

If the display shows a high utilization of your memory, an upgrade can noticeably increase the performance of your laptop. You are guaranteed to find compatible modules for your model in our store.

You need to know three things to ensure that the RAM really fits:

1. RAM type and design
   Your laptop supports e.g:
   • DDR3, DDR4 or DDR5
   • These must be available in SO-DIMM format (laptop modules, not desktop DIMM).
     A different type (e.g. DDR5 instead of DDR4) will not work technically.
2. Maximum size and clock rate
   Each laptop has:
   • a maximum total RAM capacity (e.g. 16, 32 or 64 GB),
   • a certain clock frequency (e.g. DDR4-2666, DDR4-3200, DDR5-4800).
     The new RAM should match these specifications. If you leave existing modules in the device, it is ideal to retrofit the same clock rate and capacity. Choosing a higher clock rate is often possible, but not optimal for system performance.
3. Number and assignment of slots
   Important:
   • How many RAM slots does your laptop have (usually 1-2)?
   • How many are already occupied and what size (e.g. 1×8 GB, 2×4 GB)?
   • Please note: In over 10,000 laptops, the RAM is permanently soldered and not socketed - so it cannot be expanded. 

Our practical tip:
You can easily find the right RAM using our manufacturer/model navigation in the IPC store. Simply select manufacturer → series → exact model - you will then only be shown the compatible RAM modules that technically fit your laptop and have proven themselves in practice. This minimizes the risk of incorrect purchases and incompatibilities.

• Directly to the finder:IPC Memory Configurator
• Help with questions:IPC Computer contact form

The main reason for this is a worldwide shortage in the market for RAM. This is currently being caused by two main developments:

• Massive demand from the AI/server sector
  A very large proportion of global memory production is currently being bought up for AI hardware, data centers and high-performance servers. According to estimates, over 40% of global DRAM production now flows into this area.
  This means that there is significantly less product left for traditional PC and notebook RAM modules - resulting in shortages and sharply rising purchase prices.
• Withdrawal and consolidation of manufacturers and brands
  At the same time, there are market shakeouts and manufacturer changes. Brands that were very present in the end customer business - such as Crucial - are disappearing partially or completely from certain segments or markets. Fewer suppliers while demand remains high are further exacerbating the shortage.

Together, these two factors mean that

• certain RAM variants are only available to a limited extent or are no longer available at all,
• prices for available modules are rising very quickly and significantly in some cases,
• replacement and upgrade RAM for notebooks is currently more difficult to plan and procure.

Practical advice:
We are trying to ensure the best possible supply for our customers through early and broad purchasing as well as alternative, technically equivalent products. However, we cannot completely escape the global market situation - price surges and limited availability are a direct result of this shortage situation in the storage and AI market.

Here you can buy available laptop RAM memory at the best possible market prices.

There are several reasons why your laptop shows less RAM than you actually have installed. Here are the most important causes:

1. Part of the RAM is reserved for the graphics
   Especially with integrated graphics (iGPU), part of the RAM is used as video memory (e.g. 512 MB, 1 GB or more).
   → Example: If 16 GB are installed and only about 15 GB are displayed, the rest is in the "reserved for hardware" area.
2. 32-bit operating system
   A 32-bit Windows can technically only address approx. 3-3.5 GB of RAM - regardless of how much is installed.
   → Solution: Switch to 64-bit Windows (if the hardware supports this).
3. BIOS/UEFI settings
   Some BIOS/UEFI settings (memory remapping, reserved memory for devices) can mean that the full RAM is not available for Windows.
4. One of the RAM bars is not recognized correctly
   • Module is not correctly seated in the slot (not fully engaged)
   • A slot is defective
   • A RAM module is defective or incompatible
     → In this case, only 8 GB is displayed instead of 16 GB, for example.
5. Difference between "installed" and "usable"
   In Windows you will often see: "Installed: 16.0 GB (usable: 15.2 GB)"
   This is completely normal, as a small part is always permanently reserved for the system and the hardware.

You can check this yourself:

• In Windows under Task Manager → Performance → Memory:
  • "Installed" vs. "Usable"
  • Note "Reserved for hardware"
• In BIOS/UEFI: Is the full amount of RAM recognized there?
• Test RAM modules individually: Insert each bar individually and check how much is recognized.

Do you need support?

If the displays are still unclear or there is a technical problem, we will be happy to help you personally. You can send us your exact system data and laptop model using our form.

• Directly to support: IPC Computer contact form
• Find spare parts: Original RAM in the store

Yes, in many cases it is. However, this only applies if your current RAM is the limiting factor.

A RAM expansion will give you more speed, especially if the following points apply:

• your laptop is often very busy (high RAM utilization in Task Manager),
• programs or browsers with many tabs react sluggishly,
• Windows noticeably reloads, stutters or freezes when you use several applications in parallel,
• the hard disk/SSD is constantly working even though you are not doing anything big (heavy swapping due to lack of RAM).

The positive effects after the upgrade:

• Programs start and run much smoother.
• You can use more applications at the same time without any loss of performance.
• Significantly less is swapped to the slower hard disk or SSD.

The effect is less noticeable if you:

• already have enough RAM (e.g. 16-32 GB for pure office/surfing use),
• your system is slowed down by a slow HDD or a weak CPU/graphics.

Practical tip:
If you are unsure whether a RAM upgrade is really worthwhile for your model, you can use our manufacturer/model navigation in the IPC Shop not only to find suitable RAM, but also to see whether an upgrade is even possible.

In many modern laptops, the RAM is permanently soldered to the mainboard.

In principle, you can send us your notebook for repair without an installed hard drive. In order for our technicians to check the functionality of your notebook and make an accurate error diagnosis, the notebook needs an operating system. If there is no hard disk in your notebook, we check the functions of your notebook with a boot stick. In rare cases this can cause problems with your operating system, but usually this is possible without any problems.

In general, it is possible for us to repair almost all devices. However, this question cannot be answered in a general way and we ask you to provide our technicians with some information about your notebook and the defect. The best way to do this is via our repair request form, we ask you to give us as many details as possible. Afterwards, you will receive a well-founded initial assessment of the repair status of your notebook from us as quickly as possible. 

If you need a BIOS update for your notebook, we can do this for you. If your notebook is in for repair, we update the BIOS automatically, so your notebook always has the latest BIOS after a repair.

If your device still has a manufacturer's warranty, it will be void, if it is repaired by IPC-Computer. In all cases, we give you a six-months warranty on the executed repair. If you are unsure about the warranty status of your device, please see our FAQ Where can I check the warranty status of my device?.

IPC Computer also offers you a safe and free exchange, as well as the IPC solution promise.

More information about the IPC solution promise

We will be happy to provide you with an estimate for the repair of your notebook. For more information see the FAQ-entry:

Repair cost

To protect your device from damage during shipping, please take the following precautionary measures:

• Take a sufficiently large and sturdy cardboard box. It is best to use an inner packaging.
• The best way to cushion the floor is to use styrofoam / styrofoam chips, bubble wrap or crumpled up newspaper and place your device in the middle of the box.
• Pad the rest of the space accordingly until your device is protected all around.
• If you also send in accessories, please ensure that you wrap them up carefully and leave some space between the device and the accessories.

Your device should now be optimally protected from damage during shipping.

Beides ist grundsätzlich möglich.

Bitte beantragen Sie immer vorher eine RMA-Nummer und warten Sie unsere schriftliche Freigabe per E‑Mail ab.

So funktioniert’s Schritt für Schritt:

• RMA beantragen: Reparatur-Anmeldung online ausfüllen und absenden.
• Freigabe abwarten: Sie erhalten per E‑Mail die Reparaturfreigabe.
• Lieferschein erhalten: Mit der Freigabe senden wir Ihnen den Lieferschein per E‑Mail.
• Einsenden oder vorbeibringen:
  • Versand: Gerät sicher verpacken, Lieferschein beilegen, an die angegebene Adresse senden.
  • Vor-Ort: Bringen Sie das Gerät zusammen mit dem ausgedruckten Lieferschein zu Ihrem Termin mit.

Hinweis:

• Ohne RMA/Freigabe können wir Geräte aus organisatorischen Gründen nicht annehmen.
• Wenn es eilig ist, kontaktieren Sie uns vorab telefonisch oder via WhatsApp – wir prüfen Teileverfügbarkeit und Terminoptionen.

We will be happy to provide you with a cost estimate after the diagnosis of your laptop, which is free of charge for you with an order confirmation. Please fill out the repair registration form completely and send us your laptop see our FAQ What is the repair process at IPC-Computer?. We will then carry out a diagnosis and subsequently send you a cost estimate. If you decide against a repair after our cost estimate, a diagnosis fee of 45,- € will apply.

More information about repair costs

There are 6 steps to repairing your laptop at IPC-Computer:

1. First, submit a repair request  online on our website. Please provide all the required information in full.

2. As soon as your request has been processed by us, you will receive an e-mail with information about the repair. Now you only have to send your laptop to IPC-Computer at Hauptstraße 37 in 77960 Seelbach. You can find out how to pack your laptop safely for transport in our FAQ How do I pack my laptop safely for transport?.

3. As soon as we have received your device, our technicians will carry out a fault diagnosis and inform you of the detected damages. You will also receive a cost estimate here.

4. If you agree to repair your laptop, our technicians will do it as soon as possible.

5. After the repair we will carry out another diagnosis again and check your laptop for functionality.

6. If everything is fine after the repair, we will send your laptop straight to your home.

If the status of your repair changes, you will receive an e-mail from us with all information about the current status. If it is not possible for you to view the email on another device, for example your smartphone, you can contact us by phone and check the status of your repair.

If you are unsure about the warranty status of your device, you can easily check it online. You find an online tool for this on the website of the most manufacturers. Enter the serial number of your device and (if necessary) other information, you should then immediately receive information about the warranty status.

Here you will find the testing tools of our top manufacturers:

HP  Asus  Dell  Acer  Fujitsu  Lenovo  MSI

The laptop service of IPC-Computer includes almost all common laptop models. Our extensive stock gives us direct access to tens of thousands of spare parts. If the required spare part is not in our warehouse, we order it and then carry out the repair of your laptop. You will receive more detailed information from our technicians about the repair of your laptop after a repair request. 

IPC-Computer only uses original spare parts from the manufacturer for the repair of your laptop.

• Standarddauer: 1–5 Werktage nach Ihrer Freigabe des Kostenvoranschlags.
• Express Reparaturen: Häufig innerhalb von 24–48 Stunden, wenn alle Teile lagernd sind.
• Abhängig von Ersatzteilen: Liegen Teile bei uns auf Lager (15.000+ Artikel), starten wir sofort. Bei auftragsbezogenen Originalteilen verlängert sich die Dauer i. d. R. um 1–3 Wochen (je nach Hersteller).
• Diagnose/Kostenvoranschlag: In der Regel innerhalb von 2-5 Werktagen nach Geräteeingang.
• Komplexe Schäden (z. B. Mainboard, Wasserschaden): ca 10-15 Werktage, da zusätzliche Tests und Trocknungs-/Reinigungsprozesse nötig sind.
• Transparenz: Sie erhalten zu jedem Schritt Status-Updates (Eingang, Diagnose, KVA, Teileeingang, Reparatur, Versand).

Tipp: Wenn Sie einen engen Zeitplan haben, kontaktieren Sie uns vorab (Telefon/WhatsApp). Wir prüfen Teileverfügbarkeit und reservieren bei Bedarf Komponenten, um die Durchlaufzeit zu verkürzen.

When you send in your notebook for repair, your data will not be deleted or changed by us. Your data will remain unchanged. If you send in your notebook for a HDD exchange, the new HDD remains free and your old HDD will be sent back to you together with your notebook. Before sending in your notebook, you can make a data backup on, for example, an external HDD and thus protect your data from loss. Data backups are not only recommended before a repair, but should be done regularly to protect your data from hard drive damage. If you can not perform a backup and do not want to send your data with your notebook, you can remove the HDD of your notebook and send your notebook without hard drive.

You can get a return slip for a free return via our return form. To do this, simply follow the steps indicated in the form, at the end you will receive the return slip by email.

• If your Stylus is using batteries, make sure you have inserted the right batteries in the right orientation and that they are fully charged.
• If this is the first time trying to use the stylus, you might have to remove a piece of insulation between the batteries and the contact. Usually this can just be pulled out from the side.
• If it is not using batteries, make sure the stylus is fully charged.
• If it is still not working, try restarting the device you are trying to use the stylus with or using it with another compatible device.
• If this should still not work contact us, or the manufacturer o the device.

The difference between the specifications is their maximum throughput.

• USB 1.0/1.1 (Full Speed) up to 12 Mbit/s
• USB 2.0 (High Speed) up to 480 Mbit/s
• USB 3.0 SuperSpeed) up to 5 Gbit/s (also known as USB 3.1 Gen 1)
• USB 3.1 (SuperSpeed+) up to 10 Gbit/s (also known as USB 3.1 Gen 2)
• USB 3.2 (SuperSpeed+) up to 20 Gbit/s

Yes, this possibility exists. After the installation of Windows 11, you have a 10-day test phase in which you can switch back to Windows 10 without any problems, and all your data will be transferred back.

If you decide to switch back after the 10 days, you must back up your data and reinstall Windows 10.

Generally, this is not possible; if your notebook does not meet the requirements for Windows 11, it will not be possible to install the operating system. Keep in mind that Windows 11 is not yet on the market and things can still change in the course of the year.

If, despite everything, you are unable to install Windows 11 when it is officially launched on the market in autumn 2021 to early 2022. However, you don't have to worry about having to replace your current notebook immediately. Microsoft has committed to supporting Windows 10 until October 2025.

Yes, that is possible. In this video we show how it works.

If you want to install Windows 11 on a notebook that has been in use for a few years, there may be problems. In general, there should be no problems on notebooks that are less than four years old. You can already check the compatibility of your notebook with the help of tools. You can find the tools in the FAQ entry "How can I test whether Windows 11 works on my notebook".

You can easily find out whether a TPM is already installed and activated in your notebook by doing a quick search in the Windows settings.

1. To do this, open the Start menu and search for the term “TPM” or “security chip” and confirm the search by pressing Enter.

2. A window will open showing you some information. The information relevant to the TPM is “Specification version.”

3. For your system to be compatible with Windows 11, you need specification version 2.0.

If nothing is displayed or “Not ready” is displayed, your notebook either does not have a TPM or the existing one is disabled. You can read how to activate your TPM in our FAQ - How do I activate my TPM?

To enable a disabled TPM, you need to access your BIOS. In the BIOS, you can usually find the corresponding TPM settings via the security settings under "Security Device Support", "Security" or similar. How to open the BIOS can be found in the respective manual of the mainboard.

According to Microsoft, the free upgrade from Windows 10 to 11 has no official end date, so you can take your time with the upgrade. However, Microsoft reserves the right to end support for the free offer, but this will not be until one year after general availability at the earliest.

Die aktuell bekannten Systemanforderungen sind:

• Prozessor: 1 GHz oder schneller mit mindestens zwei Kernen auf einem kompatiblen 64-Bit-Prozessor
• Arbeitsspeicher: mindestens 4 GB RAM
• TPM: Trusted Platform Module 2.0
• Grafikkarte: DirectX 12 oder höher mit WDDM 2.0-Treiber
• Speicher: mindestens 64 GB Speichermedium
• Systemfirmware: UEFI, Secure Boot aktiviert
• Internetverbindung: Ein Microsoft-Konto und eine Internetverbindung sind erforderlich

Weiter Informationen und Details zu Windows 11 können Sie in unserem IPC-Blog-Beitrag nachlesen.

By default, all files and data are transferred if you wish and set this in the installer. However, it is recommended to make a data backup before installation and to save your data on an external hard drive.

Ob Ihr Notebook die allgemeinen Systemanforderungen von Windows 11 erfüllt können Sie mit dem PC Health Check Tool von Microsoft überprüfen. Wenn dieses anzeigt, dass Sie Windows 11 nicht installieren können, ist das nicht das Todesurteil für Ihren Laptop. Wir haben möglicherweise eine Lösung! Hier finden Sie den Windows 11 Kompatiblitätstest von IPC-Computer - Link

Das Trusted Platform Module ist eine Hardwarekomponente die meist auf dem Mainboard verbaut wird und deren Hauptaufgabe in zusätzlicher Sicherheit für den Nutzer besteht. Das "TPM" stellt physisch gesichert grundlegende Sicherheitsfunktionen zur Verfügung und dient des Weiteren zur Überprüfung der Systemintegrität. Es kann außerdem Kryptografieschlüssel erstellen und verwalten.